Day off work today but bleedin weather has stopped me doing much....
Been concentrating on the indicator system as there are a few gremlins in there. Decided to go right back to basics and completely rewire the whole circuit.
Firstly, removed cleaned and tested the indicator switch and seems all good. Worked out that the best way to test is to do a continuity test on the switch in various positions. Set the multimeter to the audible continuity test settings and, from my wiring diagram, worked out that the DARK GREEN and LIGHT GREEN wires feed the left hand indicators and the DARK BROWN and TAN wires feed the right hand indicators.
With the switch in the central position, there shouldnt be any complete circuits so no indicators illuminated. In this position, a continuity test between both pairs of wires should be negative (no sound). If it beeps, the switch is faulty. Click switch down (left) and the circuit to both green wires should be complete. Test with meter to both wires and beep from meter. Good so far.... click switch up (right) and do same test on brown and tan wires....same result so switch seems ok.
Next, I have run new single wires from all four corners to the area where the switch connects into the cars wiring ready to be joined to switch when replaced.
Didnt want to use the old fittings in the bulb holders so I snipped the wire, released the spring and plastic plunger that contacts with the base of the bulb. Put a small, snug fitting bolt through the plunger and put a single plain nut on the back. Next, put a ring connector onto the main wire from the switch, crimp, then strip off the plastic insulation. If you leave it on, it makes the new connection too thick and the spring wont depress enough to allow the bulb to stay in.
Next, put the ring connector onto the bolt, attach it with another nut, then bend the ring connector down onto the side of the nuts. Slide a piece of heat shrink up over the nuts and onto the plunger and now you have a new wire directly to the bulb which is insulated from the casing (earth).
I then attached separate earth leads to the outer casing of the holder to run to an earth point on the trunk next to the bulb holder housing. To test the earth lead, put a bulb in the holder, then do a continuity test from the side casing of the bulb and the end of the earth lead. If it beeps, the earth is good. Final test, continuity test from the bolt head that will contact with the nipple on the bottom of the bulb and the end of the wire to the switch....
Finally, I have had to make up some front indicator bulb holders as per pic. The insides are same as described above, with a bolt replacing the original dodgy connector.
The earth lead pic is just for illustration, I will wire wool the casing clean before final installation to make sure of a good earth.
Next job...fit it all when I get a dry day!!!
Cheers Steve
