Mopar Muscle Association UK

Blue wrote: Wed May 02, 18 6:26 pm Dash frame is stock, no Swiss cheesing going on here. Yes the dash frame unbolts but it's a screen out job as there are bolts under the the windscreen rubber. For that reason I had the difficult job of masking it up and painting it in situ, it looks to be impossible but it can be done.

Yeah same as a B body then, i took the screen out of the white bird to get the dash out and Bananarama!, getting the screen back in was a bit of a sod

Kev wrote: Thu May 03, 18 7:09 am

Captain Chaos wrote: Wed May 02, 18 7:46 pm Like the colour you’re going for.

I admire how far you are into doing this car.I’m so impatient I’d end up rushing it.

Believe me when I say this a supersonic speed build for Blue!

Don wrote: Thu May 03, 18 8:13 am

Blue wrote: Wed May 02, 18 6:26 pm Dash frame is stock, no Swiss cheesing going on here. Yes the dash frame unbolts but it's a screen out job as there are bolts under the the windscreen rubber. For that reason I had the difficult job of masking it up and painting it in situ, it looks to be impossible but it can be done.

Yeah same as a B body then, i took the screen out of the white bird to get the dash out and Bananarama!, getting the screen back in was a bit of a sod

Thats what i though.......Duly noted for future ref!!!

Car is looking good Blue!!!

Looking good, Blue.

New tank, 3/8" sender and fuel line, all new brake lines...

Looking good blue

Liking it a lot

Looking good blue

Coming together in leaps and bounds now, new rear bumper and tail light bezels and a "spring special" trunk lid stripe. The stripe is typical repro standard, about 1/8" too narrow to fit between the trims and they have thoughtfully punched out the lock hole too large. The upshot is I had to match the stripe colour and paint the panel first so you don't have white showing through where you shouldn't, frustrating...

All brake lines finished, line lock and late model master cyl. used. I treated myself to a new 16.1 fast ratio steering box a while back, that seems to fit fine. Finishing off the wiring at the moment and reassembling the dash....

Nice one!!! 16:1 ratio box gives you a faster manual ratio the proper way.

chrysler also used a longer pitman arm on a 20:1 ratio box to achieve the same ratio

trouble with this is it increases the speed of turn in the middle of the box, exactly where you don't want it, and an area that is traditionally the slowest place in a modern car with a variable rate box or rack.....

couple that with a standard length idler and a steering cross bar that is no longer parallel with the bulkhead and the cheap long pitman arm set up looks decidedly cheap. A long pitman arm with a longer idler to match, is not that much better, slightly better geometry in a turn but still fast in the middle and hard to keep straight ahead. kinda works on a car designed to go round a banked oval though......!

Dave

All coming together very well.
I was wondering though, in the last pic, the one of the engine bay showing the master cylinder and line loc, etc. It looks like you’ve used copper / kunifer brake pipe to and from the line loc? The instructions that came with my line loc said to use steel pipe to and from the line loc due to the higher pressures caused by using it, is it not necessary to use steel pipe?
Also wondering what the red and gold cylindrical thing is in the brake pipe, directly opposite the master cylinder?

I've never used anything else other than Kunifer for brake lines in the last 40 years, never had it burst, never heard of it bursting. You can get copper brake line which is considerably softer, I think it's most likely that which they are advising against. I must admit I have never come across the steel pipe only clause with any of the line locks I have used, possibly just a bit of arse coverage going on?
The red thing is a residual pressure valve. The master cyl. is designed for a disc/ disc system, if you have rear drum brakes you add an RPV into that line to retain a small amount of pressure which keeps the wheel cylinders sealed and prevents a spongy pedal. You mount it as close to the master cylinder as possible for maximum effect.

Thanks Blue,
You’re probably right about arse coverage regarding steel pipes for line loc use.
I’d never heard of an RPV, is it the same sort of thing as a proportion valve, or would you use it as well as or instead of one