Mopar Muscle Association UK

yeah, the stock oiling on them wasn't good at all .

Yeah i would imagine the porting would help

Blue wrote: Fri Jun 22, 18 5:29 pm Been reading up about small block oiling and the consensus seems to be unless you are going way north of 6000 RPM (which I'm not) the standard set up really needs no mods. Gasket matching and porting the cap and pump is one of the first mods mentioned and as it costs nothing but an half hour of my time I did it anyway as any help to the suction side has to be a good thing.

Agree with your conclusion Blue. there are plenty of popular mods like tubing the lifter galleries, drilling out the oils passages etc which are well documented, but agree these are really for high rpm (as you say - way north of 6K). Def port the pump/cap as you have, possibly consider a bigger pickup tube, drill out the oil filter retainer plate with more holes and also possibly maximise the feed hole through the middle. Don't use a windage tray (though scraper worthwhile considering). If using a standard oilpan then at least weld in a simple baffle (again pretty well documented)

Are you using a high volume pump or not? It's kind of intuitive to use one as a precaution, but some also say with standard bearing clearances etc, it's just wasting energy....

No I’m just using a standard pump, I don’t see the need for anything else on this one. I have already modified the cover plate and inlet boss, costs no money and takes no time so why not. I don’t use Windage trays these days, the pan will just have a simple baffle.

what did you do to the pump cover?
my pump is a small block pump in all but the case and mounting. i.e internals the same just the shaft is longer...

Dave

Nothing to the pump cover itself, I was referring to the plate behind the filter on the block, I have drilled extra holes and opened up the existing ones.

Blue wrote: Fri Jun 22, 18 10:36 am I had an odd oil pressure problem on my old 16 valve Astra Don. Oil pressure was fine at idle but dropped away as the revs went up. New pump was just the same. Turned out the slight dent in the oil pan was hard up against the pick up, the clearance is very tight on those engines I found out...

I had the same on my Nissan E20 van in Australia, dented sump pushed close to the oil pick up strainer and restricting the oil flow above tickover. Fixed with an hours work and a hammer.

You know when you've just fitted piston no 7 and you're thinking one more to do and thats that, as you tighten up the rod bolt your torque wrench isn't clicking and you've already got double the amount of thread showing than all the rest? Yea that. New ARP bolts should be here by Tuesday when I can take all the pistons out and start again. Best get on with something else then....

Sounds like it’s fighting back blue,
Stay calm and keep going, the finish line is in sight.

Blue wrote: Thu Jun 28, 18 6:02 pm You know when you've just fitted piston no 7 and you're thinking one more to do and thats that, as you tighten up the rod bolt your torque wrench isn't clicking and you've already got double the amount of thread showing than all the rest? Yea that. New ARP bolts should be here by Tuesday when I can take all the pistons out and start again. Best get on with something else then....

NOW THATS A BITCH BLUE,,

had the same on a Jaguar engine with new ARP bolts when torqued. they stretched by 2mm at least. (the old bolts would torque fine)

when we told ARP they stopped production looked into it. Rang back and said use the stretch method only.

another set of new Bolts and have never torqued them ever since (about 10 years ago). for a Jag they should stretch 5.5 thou and it got to the point I did so many that I could get the stretch spot on first time just using a long spanner.


if you read the ARP directions with new bolts they should always be measured and noted before fitting, as when they are undone at a later date they should go back to the same length. if not don't reuse them.

Never had a problem with ARP, Mopar performance are the worst rod bolts I have ever used, appalling quality.

ARP bolts installed, bottom end all back together phew! Degree in the cam Tomorrow and hope that doesn't throw up any issues...

This crap repro part has been fighting me for the last couple of weeks with various leaks, thought I had it beaten but when it's under pressure it leaks between the main body and the large screw in adaptor at the top. The sealing surface for the copper washer is barely 1mm wide on both parts and nothing I have tried will seal it, it's just a really poor design. I have ordered another that doesn't have that part so hopefully I'll have more luck with that.

You hear this all too often Blue, so much cheapo crap around, and not all that cheap either