Tyrefryers 1964 Dart

[TyreFryer]

Cheers Dave.

With the help of Josh, Nat and his mate we lifted the body off the chassis tonight. I'll wait until I've cleaned the chassis before I post a pic of it "bare".

In the meantime, here are all the mounting point details for Jon and anyone else who's interested, the bolts were just temporary to hold it in place. (I hope the descriptions of what each is are OK, ask me if not, obviously the righthand mountings are symmetrical on the lefthand side).

[Adrian Worman]

Only just caught up with this Mart, nice project for ya mate

[TyreFryer]

I'm just down the road Adrian, call in one night. I'm usually there until gone 11pm.

[Adrian Worman]

Yeah sounds good Mart, back at work next week so I'll get up there one evening, look forward to seeing it

[Jon Connolly]

Thanks for that Martin

Given me some good ideas for attaching mine

[db]

All i can think of is the initial thought process- sitting there with a pile of tubing and a bare shell and thinking 'oh my god i've got to attach this to that
Some serious cleverness gone on there to make it so neat and simple, thats for sure.

[TyreFryer]

Thanks for that Martin

Given me some good ideas for attaching mine

Let me know if you want to see anything else Jon, I'll post pics of how the other panels attach when I start to fit them.

[Dave-R]

Interesting use of cupboard doors as a bulkhead.

[TyreFryer]

I've spent the last week painting the interior of the glass body. After a bit of experimenting I decided to brush paint the rough side of the glassfibre, I figured it would be easier to touch up if the paint gets chipped and the brush marks are already in the resin in any case. (As it happens, the paint I used lost any brush marks when dry). Wickes sell a water based metal paint in satin and matt finish that doesn't require an undercoat, (they also sell a gloss version that is spirit based) for just under £11 per 750ml. They also have a water based primer but I found this wasn't needed and it DID leave a lot of brush marks, being very thick to apply.

I didn't want a blackboard matt finish as I thought this would mark easily so I tried the satin version. This turned out to be quite shiny (toffee apple) so I ended up using the matt, which I would say has a satin finish when dry. I found I needed to apply 5 thin coats in the end (just over 3 750ml cans) but the paint seems to be quite resilient, having a plastic type of consistency (I guess it's vinyl), it isn't at all brittle.

Here's the paint: http://www.wickes.co.uk/smooth-matt-met ... vt/214320/

And this is what it looks like on the body, and a pic of the chassis polished up:

[Cannonball]

how come i have only just seen this thread lit up

thats gonna be some tool marty boy the pic sort off assembled at hausers or where ever it does look sit the bizo, tin work sweeeeeet,

as for mounting the body to the steel i would use a very slim piece off rubber between the body n mounts if you can get it there is some pukka stuff that gets put between heavy engineering machines and floors trev might know where to get it that would be perfect,,,,,,,,,

[Adrian Worman]

I got that rubber Mart, it's called insertion rubber and we put it under big pumps and the like, how much do you need? Call in and we can show you

[TyreFryer]

Cheers mate, I'm well up for some insertion rubber. When are you popping over?

Cheers Duncan, its my rented unit, not Hausers.

[Adrian Worman]

Might nip over after work, pm me the address then

[TyreFryer]

We mounted the body back on the chassis tonight, I'm pleased with the way the interior paint has turned out.

I now need to order a load of UNC and UNF cadmium and stainless bolts, set screws, washers and nuts to permanently bolt everything up. (I'd be interested to hear of any recommendations for suppliers).

[jerry]

Have a word with Roger Luty he's got a supplier for stainless at good prices got me a load for my engine.