Mopar Muscle Association UK

Great work and very interesting

Doesn't need to be pretty Will, as long as it works, that's the main thing.

Keep us posted, interesting to see & read about your progress

hello

I normally can't see the pictures (at work) but have checked in at home for once

amazing work

is the pickup hall effect?

hall effect pickups need a magnetic field to conduct and the field needs to move away again for the conduction to stop silicon gallenium sandwich or something

so your teeth would need to be magnetic if the pickup is hall effect

or that sensor is damn clever and induces a magnetic filed in each tooth as it passes which then acts on a hall effect switch in the same sensor! which might work cos the magnet field in the sensor would be opposite direction to that induced in the tooth and maybe the hall sensor is orientated so it works with the induced field only.

but that's two very close and nearly equal magnetic fields trying to cancel themselves out

sounds too hard... the ford diagram labels the pickup as a VRS
Variable Reluctance Sensor i.e magnetic

and you must use shielded cable



36-1 is based on ford EDIS ignition
fiesta escort edis 4
probe edis 4 edis 6
cougar edis6
explorer edis6
crown Victoria Edis8 until about 1996

I have the same trigger wheel . I guess you got it from trigger wheels.com

it needs a balance I had mine checked and it now has 3 holes drilled in it opposite the missing tooth, it did not like spinning fast.
I got a phone call "whats your intended redline? oh this won't do" and off he went to drill some holes.
Granted its a drop in the ocean but you pay to get everything else balanced, mount the clutch cover in the same place every time etc seems daft to bolt an 8 mm thick mild steel plate on that isn't

Dave

sse what i can sort

gotta find it first

will dig it out

will measure major and minor diameter

diameter of hole or holes and depth
suggest drill bit size based on that and how deep you need to set on ya pillar drill

work out ratio in size to yours

then we just put the hole or holes in the same relative place with the dimensions expanded or contarcted appropriately based on the ratio

if that don't work i'll send it

Dave

There where questions as to would a massive set of above blowers work well
at low rpm. so to rule out future problems I had the Mainfold machine and a set of smaller injectors fitted below blower. These are 300cc and be used upto around 2500rpm


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It will be interesting to see how that performs.

Great work

Very clever stuff!

Typically the Injectors above the blower have 2 functions in helping cool the blower & delivering the fuel supply.

FYI - When blown, I only had 8 Bosch injectors 85lb/hr (870cc) injectors above the hat, running 45psi & they were capable of feeding enough fuel for 1,100Hp. I forget the duty cycle now. Naturally, you can get more fuel with increased fuel pressure.

Without question, the injectors below the hat will help in mapping & idling. I forget now what you are using as a throttle body, if you are intending using IAC, which can assist in idling

I am not sure what you class as massive, massive to me is a 500lb's (5,500cc's) Injector.

FYI - For Turbo i switched to Moran 325lb's (3,410cc's) injectors, which are great for full out & but too much for the road, so have since stepped down to 225lb's (2,500cc's) injectors

mopar_mark wrote:
I am not sure what you class as massive, massive to me is a 500lb's (5,500cc's) Injector.

really really great info and thanks for your input as always

Difference between men and boys is clearly the size of the injector.

im running 300cc x 8 below and 500cc x 8 above.

which in my eyes was massive unit now

Next how do you get 2 x fuel line (feed + return) though a chassis rail ?

I machines these bars up out of steel then treaded and fitted AN-10 fittings these are welded into the frame.


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Liking that

Do you have any flex in those fuel lines? I'm just thinking how much the bodies can twist and move around...

db wrote:Do you have any flex in those fuel lines? I'm just thinking how much the bodies can twist and move around...

Its a good point. The line are stainless so have quite a bit of flex. Car has chassis connectors and small rear tyres. At the engine i will go into flexible line

autofetish wrote:

db wrote:Do you have any flex in those fuel lines? I'm just thinking how much the bodies can twist and move around...

Its a good point. The line are stainless so have quite a bit of flex. Car has chassis connectors and small rear tyres. At the engine i will go into flexible line

I agree with Paul.......

If it were me I'd want a small flexi (at either end) where you connect into the chassis.
No amount of strengthening will stop the chassis flexing. From the photo's it looks like it will be putting all the loads into the thread on the connectors (as the car is under twists under power/braking).

Just my