Tips, techniques, warnings on engine removal

[Dart Vader]

Hiya guys,

Now I have my new(ish) engine its time to pull the old 318 out of my 70 dart ready for parts transfer and re-installation of the newer engine.

Anyone got any tips to help, (nothing daft please, like open the bonnet), but sort of tips the books don't tell you about, maybe a shortcut or two.

Will be pulling the old 727 at the same time for a valve body overhaul so any tips more than welcome.

Thanks

J

[Holly]

Don't forget the earth straps

There was a bunch of tips on engine swapping in one of the old Connecteds (it'll be in the archive). 10 brownie points to whoever can remember which though!

[latil]

Don't pull the engine off the trans with the convertor attatched.

[Anonymous]

different people will have different methods, but personally I would pull the trans first, let the back of the engine rest against somthing so it doesn't just rest against the firewall, because it will just lean back when you undo the gearbox crossmember. Then pulling the engine out without denting up the engine compartment will be a cynch, and less heavy, and no trans fluid spilling out everywhere . You can lift it out level without having to come up really high too.

When putting everything back in, I would do it all in reverse, put the engine in first, then get the trans in. the transmissions don't weigh too much luckily, and the bottom is flat so its easy to manouvre into position on a trolley jack (put something on the jack to prevent denting the pan)

[Anonymous]

I split then in situ aswell, but I leave the gearbox in place and pull the motor first.

Remember: An engine crane is a device for testing the tensile strength of earth straps.

[Dave-R]

Don't remove the engine!

You will find that performance will suffer with the engine removed.

[Anonymous]

Hi Justin,

As it is a mopar, shall we say Motor and trans?

As you want the trans out as well, I normally take the whole lot out together as a unit.
Remove the Rad and motor ancillaries. Two motor mount nuts!
Jack the back of the car up as high as axle stands allow. this gives you access to the trans mount and rear prop U/J. I would drain all the oils at this point! Disconnect linkages and place a trolley jack under the tailshaft.

I assume you will have a good long reach crane? Lift the engine with a strong chain just behind the card flange area, and lower the trans down towards the floor so the whole thing is approx 30-40 degrees.
Gentle lifting and manoeuvring will allow the whole kit and caboodle to be removed over the rad support.

It will take longer to read this than do the Job.

Best of luck Baccy.

[AllKiller]

Baccy definately the way to go

[AllKiller]

Baccy definately the way to go
Works well fast in and out

[Dave-R]

The safest way is to drop the engine, front suspension (k-frame) and trans onto a wheeled bogy and lift the front of the car up.

The factory installed the whole lot as a unit from under the car. It is by far the easiest and safest way to do it and I have done it every way possible over the years.

[Holly]

I seem to remember that was Farmer Ted's favoured method as well.

[AllKiller]

Car would have to be very high then
think regular garage, regular tools.

[Anonymous]

Hi Dave,

Good point dude!!!

Great method, dropping the whole lot out the bottom, but lifting the car up and over creates a new set of probs!

Two poster ramp makes that method a duck shoot!!!

Baccy.

[Holly]

think regular garage, regular tools.

Erm, how much space and weight capacity do you need to pull the engine out the top?!

[Dave-R]

Guys. I have posted about this three times now. Three different threads.

The last time was Pete Wiseman asking the same question. I feel like I am back in school being held back by the other kids again.

With the car resting on axle stands at the front at about or just over ride height and on its wheels at the back I hardly needed to lift the front of the car at all. Just a foot or so.