Removing yoke from pumpkin?

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sun Apr 20, 08 5:30 pm

Looks like its held with one big and very tight bolt. Anyone know if this is a normal thread to remove and what torque seting its held by?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Apr 20, 08 5:43 pm

just looked in the book. 7 1/4 and 8 3/4 axle 240 foot pounds minimum.
normal thread (i think).

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sun Apr 20, 08 5:45 pm

Thanks Dave, sounds like an airtool job

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Apr 20, 08 7:16 pm

It's called the "Drive Pinion Flange Nut".

How tight it is depends on the type of pinion.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Apr 20, 08 10:10 pm

not got that extra bit for 8 3/4 in my book.

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Sun Apr 20, 08 10:30 pm

MilesnMiles wrote:Thanks Dave, sounds like an airtool job

You don't need an air tool, just use pipe grips to hold the yoke against the floor of the car.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Apr 21, 08 7:47 am

Mick, the yokes ( I have two) are on the garage floor currently. Dave, thanks for the scan.
Next query -Is it a 'simple' case of unlock bolt, swap yokes and do up nut, or does the tightness of the nut impact on pinion settings ie if a torque up can i damage anything inadvertantly?
Pumpkin is 741 unit

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Apr 21, 08 8:32 am

tightness of the nut has a direct impact on the preload of the pinion bearings hence there is a minimum torque setting.

ideally the carrier should be removed ( so the crown wheel has no effect on turning torque of the pinion) pinion nut is then torqued to the minimum setting and then checked for turning resistance with an in/lb torque wrench

sure the figure is 15in/lb with old bearings and 25 in/lb with new bearings, best to check that though

with a 741 case it doesn't matter if you go a little high as you can back the nut off and do it again as there are preload shims, 489 case with the crush sleeve you need a new crush sleeve and if you go too high you will need another

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Mon Apr 21, 08 11:03 am

What about 742 case's

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Mon Apr 21, 08 11:26 am

Same as 741, Guy. Preload etc is shim

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Mon Apr 21, 08 2:16 pm

Thanks Kev

ps: Have you had your tape measure out yet kev

db · Post by db » Thu Apr 24, 08 2:24 pm

Mick70RR wrote:
MilesnMiles wrote:Thanks Dave, sounds like an airtool job
You don't need an air tool, just use pipe grips to hold the yoke against the floor of the car.

I've had similar advice but to brace it againt the frame of the car- some (eg Ford 9") can require as much as 3-400lb so your floor might not be an ideal strong point...

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Thu Apr 24, 08 6:11 pm

Think I may have a solution, possibilty of an adaptor set up that allows big yoke to small yoke. Need to contact Hauser. With thanks to Blue

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Fri Apr 25, 08 11:54 am

MilesnMiles wrote:Think I may have a solution, possibilty of an adaptor set up that allows big yoke to small yoke. Need to contact Hauser. With thanks to Blue

If you are talking about the 'crossover' UJ, then yes that is oft-used and allows mating a prop to a yoke when one is a 7290 size and the other a 7260. Is that what you are trying to achieve? I had one on my car actually. Very cheap in the US, £50 or so over here!!!