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Removing yoke from pumpkin?

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 08 5:30 pm
by MilesnMiles
Looks like its held with one big and very tight bolt. Anyone know if this is a normal thread to remove and what torque seting its held by?

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 08 5:43 pm
by Anonymous
just looked in the book. 7 1/4 and 8 3/4 axle 240 foot pounds minimum.
normal thread (i think).

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 08 5:45 pm
by MilesnMiles
Thanks Dave, sounds like an airtool job :cry:

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 08 7:16 pm
by Dave-R
It's called the "Drive Pinion Flange Nut".

How tight it is depends on the type of pinion.

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 08 10:10 pm
by Anonymous
not got that extra bit for 8 3/4 in my book.

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 08 10:30 pm
by Mick70RR
MilesnMiles wrote:Thanks Dave, sounds like an airtool job :cry:
You don't need an air tool, just use pipe grips to hold the yoke against the floor of the car.

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 08 7:47 am
by MilesnMiles
Mick, the yokes ( I have two) are on the garage floor currently. Dave, thanks for the scan.
Next query -Is it a 'simple' case of unlock bolt, swap yokes and do up nut, or does the tightness of the nut impact on pinion settings ie if a torque up can i damage anything inadvertantly?
Pumpkin is 741 unit

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 08 8:32 am
by Anonymous
tightness of the nut has a direct impact on the preload of the pinion bearings hence there is a minimum torque setting.

ideally the carrier should be removed ( so the crown wheel has no effect on turning torque of the pinion) pinion nut is then torqued to the minimum setting and then checked for turning resistance with an in/lb torque wrench

sure the figure is 15in/lb with old bearings and 25 in/lb with new bearings, best to check that though

with a 741 case it doesn't matter if you go a little high as you can back the nut off and do it again as there are preload shims, 489 case with the crush sleeve you need a new crush sleeve and if you go too high you will need another

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 08 11:03 am
by Guy
What about 742 case's :?

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 08 11:26 am
by Kev
Same as 741, Guy. Preload etc is shim :thumbright:

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 08 2:16 pm
by Guy
Thanks Kev :thumbright:

ps: Have you had your tape measure out yet kev ;)

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 08 2:24 pm
by db
Mick70RR wrote:
MilesnMiles wrote:Thanks Dave, sounds like an airtool job :cry:
You don't need an air tool, just use pipe grips to hold the yoke against the floor of the car.
I've had similar advice but to brace it againt the frame of the car- some (eg Ford 9") can require as much as 3-400lb so your floor might not be an ideal strong point...

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 08 6:11 pm
by MilesnMiles
Think I may have a solution, possibilty of an adaptor set up that allows big yoke to small yoke. Need to contact Hauser. With thanks to Blue :thumbright:

Posted: Fri Apr 25, 08 11:54 am
by MrNorm
MilesnMiles wrote:Think I may have a solution, possibilty of an adaptor set up that allows big yoke to small yoke. Need to contact Hauser. With thanks to Blue :thumbright:
If you are talking about the 'crossover' UJ, then yes that is oft-used and allows mating a prop to a yoke when one is a 7290 size and the other a 7260. Is that what you are trying to achieve? I had one on my car actually. Very cheap in the US, £50 or so over here!!!