Rear Light Lenses
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Rear Light Lenses
I thought I would have a go at making a set of rear light lenses for the Satellite but incorporating an amber lens for an MoT pass.
I am half way through the mould making process (see pic) using the original as the master and wondered if anybody had tried this before and if they had any hints and tips - what worked and what didn't.
I am half way through the mould making process (see pic) using the original as the master and wondered if anybody had tried this before and if they had any hints and tips - what worked and what didn't.
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- Rear-light mould.JPG (104.07 KiB) Viewed 1395 times
Leave it looking original & stick amber bulbs in the reversing lights, snip the feeds off the cluster & then run a feed from each cluster to each reverse lamp. Once you have done that you will need to run a new feed from the brake peddle switch to the clusters. Your sidelights will be the same, brake lights wont flash & you will have amber flashers in the bumper. Its what I did. 

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- still original
- Picture 120.jpg (65.99 KiB) Viewed 1367 times
Hi Blue,
The material used for this is an RTV silcone elastomer with a trade name of Flexil-S. It uses a two part approach with a catalyst/hardener being added to the main fluid. It's a weird material and I realise that I could have been smarter with it's usage - it's quite expensive but you only really need to use it close to the master to capture the fine detail - you can use something cheaper to provide the main build up of the mould.
I had a pot of this stuff from when I made some light pods for my 68 polara which I never thought I would find (but which I did in the end). It's been sitting in my garage for 7-8 years but it worked find although it is only supposed to have a shelf life of 6 months.
I hope to have the mould finished by the end of next weekend so I'll post some more pictures then. It might finish in failure but nothing ventured .....
The material used for this is an RTV silcone elastomer with a trade name of Flexil-S. It uses a two part approach with a catalyst/hardener being added to the main fluid. It's a weird material and I realise that I could have been smarter with it's usage - it's quite expensive but you only really need to use it close to the master to capture the fine detail - you can use something cheaper to provide the main build up of the mould.
I had a pot of this stuff from when I made some light pods for my 68 polara which I never thought I would find (but which I did in the end). It's been sitting in my garage for 7-8 years but it worked find although it is only supposed to have a shelf life of 6 months.
I hope to have the mould finished by the end of next weekend so I'll post some more pictures then. It might finish in failure but nothing ventured .....
Here is the lower mould complete. The yellow mould material is now flush with the lip of the rear lens. There is also a photo of the amber resin that was cast to test the level of translucency and overall colour.
Next step is to extend the locating pins on the lens to create air vents and then cover the mould material with cling film and spray on release agent to the lens and pour on more silcone.
Then put on a ply backing piece which the silicone will stick to so that the mould remains regid once the lens is removed.
Remove the lens
Then drill hole in pointy end to get resin in, spray mould with release agent and gel coat the mould with resin to minimise air bubbles - clamp the two moulds together, stand on end and fill with translucent amber resin -just enough to create the end section for the indicator.
Remove from mould and trim to exact size required. Spray with release agent and place back in mould. Add the translucent red resin and wait to set.
That's the theory anyway - the practical bit comes next weekend. Fingers crossed.
Next step is to extend the locating pins on the lens to create air vents and then cover the mould material with cling film and spray on release agent to the lens and pour on more silcone.
Then put on a ply backing piece which the silicone will stick to so that the mould remains regid once the lens is removed.
Remove the lens
Then drill hole in pointy end to get resin in, spray mould with release agent and gel coat the mould with resin to minimise air bubbles - clamp the two moulds together, stand on end and fill with translucent amber resin -just enough to create the end section for the indicator.
Remove from mould and trim to exact size required. Spray with release agent and place back in mould. Add the translucent red resin and wait to set.
That's the theory anyway - the practical bit comes next weekend. Fingers crossed.
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- Lamp-amber-test-1-lite.JPG (63.56 KiB) Viewed 1276 times
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- Rear_lens_mould-1-lite.JPG (87.02 KiB) Viewed 1276 times
|'ve moulded the outboard sections of the early mustang lens. IIRC you could get a kit from one of the hobby companies. Just made up a box out of card slightly bigger than the section of lens (only needed the outer section of the 3 visible bits) mix up the mould material (some sort of 2 part silicone). Pour it around the lens making sure it's not touching the sides of the container.
Once it is set pull your original lens out and mix up the clear 2 part resin-just pour it in and you've got a perfect copy, only clear. Airbrush this with transparent amber (get this from your local model shop).
Now on the mustang it is pretty easy to hide the join between the original lens and the new amber bit behind the chrome segment, on a mopar you'd have to be much more accurate, also mustang lens are cheap to hack up.
One thing I have noticed is that the resin is not as resistant to ageing as the OEM plastic, it is over 10 years since I did this and they are not as shiny as they were but I suppose they would polish up as the paint is on the back. Good luck!
Once it is set pull your original lens out and mix up the clear 2 part resin-just pour it in and you've got a perfect copy, only clear. Airbrush this with transparent amber (get this from your local model shop).
Now on the mustang it is pretty easy to hide the join between the original lens and the new amber bit behind the chrome segment, on a mopar you'd have to be much more accurate, also mustang lens are cheap to hack up.
One thing I have noticed is that the resin is not as resistant to ageing as the OEM plastic, it is over 10 years since I did this and they are not as shiny as they were but I suppose they would polish up as the paint is on the back. Good luck!
Richard,
Thanks for the tips
Here's how the first amber casting turned out. I haven't trimmed or cleaned it as I just wanted to test the process but the rear is perfect (this is formed from the second (rear) mould and I learned a lot about making moulds when doing the front) and the front not so good. I will remould the front so hopefully should get a good finish then front and back.
Thanks for the tips

Here's how the first amber casting turned out. I haven't trimmed or cleaned it as I just wanted to test the process but the rear is perfect (this is formed from the second (rear) mould and I learned a lot about making moulds when doing the front) and the front not so good. I will remould the front so hopefully should get a good finish then front and back.
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- Lens first attempt lite.JPG (99.08 KiB) Viewed 1199 times
Not sure if anyone is interested in this thread but ..... here's the latest:
Both mould sides are now spot on and here is the first product of the new moulds, pretty well as cast - not drilled or cleaned. Didn't use quite enough resin for the amber section so not usable. 'Real' one will be produced this weekend.
Both mould sides are now spot on and here is the first product of the new moulds, pretty well as cast - not drilled or cleaned. Didn't use quite enough resin for the amber section so not usable. 'Real' one will be produced this weekend.
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- Lens-prototype-lite.JPG (94.72 KiB) Viewed 1133 times
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- Lens-mould lite.JPG (82.43 KiB) Viewed 1133 times