Green Bearings, GOOD OR BAD!!!

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Oct 30, 10 2:09 pm

Hi Moparfolks

I've been telling everyone to change to Greens , for several reasons, blah, blah.

BUT!!! I seem to be getting a few failures now!!!
First signs of said failure is the grease removing itself all over your brakes, or if you're lucky the grease goes inside the axle.

Then the wobble check on said bearing shows excessive play!!!

Now I'm not so sure if they are up to snuff?
Anyone want to tell their Green Bearing stories???
If I hear nowt back, then I will put it down to 'BAD-LUCK'

Oh yes and I read several bad stories on the NET!
Thought they were just being PARANOID, as Septic's tend to be? LOL

Bafanabacca

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Oct 30, 10 2:30 pm

I fitted them years ago & never had a problem with them.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sat Oct 30, 10 4:56 pm

Used them in all the Mopars I've ever owned and any that I've worked on, never had a failure. What you do need to check though, if you still have the block in the centre of the diff, is preload. I try the shafts in the axle case without the brake backing plates to see if the shafts need a little ground off the ends to prevent side loading them when things get up to running temperature. That would definitely cause them to fail prematurely.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Oct 30, 10 7:10 pm

Never had problems using green bearings.

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Sat Oct 30, 10 8:07 pm

Avoid the type with the pressed on flange, use the type with the spirolock type clip and seperate flange.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Oct 30, 10 8:47 pm

Hi Moparfolks.

That's real interesting stuff there Blue!
Both the failures I've seen have been with diffs that still have the centre spacer still in place!!!

I know with stock beariings we only need 12thou end float, which is easy to check.
So your method of checking the end float with the back plates removed is spot-on!

The A-Bod replacement shafts from Yukon are nearly 3/16" shorter than stock, so this problem doesn't occur!!!

Thanx for the helpful pointers.
You live and learn, not seen this info anywhere else!

Bacca.

steveo · Post by **steveo** » Sat Oct 30, 10 9:13 pm

would only ever put the factory type of taper roller bearing in mine !! the general conflab on the us sites that the green cant with stand , side loading for any length of time !! , makes sence taper rolls can withstand more load !! !! what do nascar use ??
,

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Sat Oct 30, 10 9:56 pm

Yes this has been endlessly discussed with polarised opinions.

It is a fact that Greens have a fraction of the side loading capabilities of the factory taper roller. AFAIK where roller bearings are used in rear axles they usually (always?) have another method of taking the side load.

Many people have used Green bearings with no trouble at all.
Equally, some have used them and had premature failures.
For a drag racer I doubt you'd ever have a problem. For a street car you might. I would think carefully before putting them on a car that you want to corner hard in.

So in summary, at the least there appears to be a greatly increased chance of failure over the taper roller, but that doesn't mean you'll definitely ever see one. Having said that, how much hassle is it really to adjust the taper rollers......?

Scooby · Post by **Scooby** » Sun Oct 31, 10 8:17 am

Got me checking mine now just had all my done !!!!Never had problems b4...I guess there always gonna be the odd one that breaks down...nothings perfect..

drewcrane · Post by **drewcrane** » Sun Oct 31, 10 10:49 am

Well I can chime in on this one, I have had green bearings for 5 or 6 years,(with wilwood brakes), now and do some drag racing and road racing,as well as a ton of street use, I LUCKILY HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS,

However I just got a copy of a Mopar rag called Mopar Action,there is a letter some one wrote in and they had problems with the same set up I have only on an e body cuda,he is on his 4 th set,.he dragged raced it and had no issues but after a road rally he limped home and and the bearings were trashed,

the editor replied and said that the bearings are pretty bad and the snap ring versions are supposed to be the best

THAT IS WHAT I HAVE!

They make plenty of noise before failure,so keep a close ear,

Mopar now lists them as "drag racing only-not for street use"

To use stock tapered roller bearings with a disc brake kit that has a retainer that is thicker than a stock drum support you will need a slightly longer axle,

or narrow the housing as required,

and of course what ever diff you use must have the thrust button arrangement

one could machine up some thicker thrust buttons,they need to be quite hard,

the thickness of a stock thrust button is 1.50"

ALSO VERY IMPORTANT,the old style adjusters are not reproduced,hold on to those old adjusters they are like gold around here ,and nobody will part with them

Drew

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Oct 31, 10 1:03 pm

Nice one Drew!

Yep the two failed bearings I have here are from street driven cars!
When I have fitted the green bearings into cars myself I have removed the centre spacer as a rule!
In an ideal world, the green bearings could be set-up the same as taper bearings with around twelve thousanths endfloat, then the bearings would have the added bonus of the support of the opposite bearing on severe cornering?(once the axles are up to running temps)

Alot of Folks are unaware how the taper bearing set-up actually works???
The bearing on the opposite side of the car takes the side loading when cornering, transmitted through the axle-shaft and the centre button!!!

The double roller 'green bearing' is supposed to take the side loading without any help from the bearing on the opposite axle!
Therefore no need for the centre button.

Thanx for the feedback, and good luck with whatever set-up you use>>>

Bacca

moparnutterz · Post by **moparnutterz** » Sun Oct 31, 10 2:12 pm

Has my diff got the centre button in, coz Im running green bearings Bacca

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Oct 31, 10 2:24 pm

moparnutterz wrote:Has my diff got the center button in, coz Im running green bearings Bacca

Only passenger dana 60s & 8 3/4 axles used the centre button..................just make sure to use the foam gasket that sits between axle end & brake drum plate/5 hole spacer , some don't bother with this gasket & use silicone instead , without the gasket it can damage bearing snap ring , you also gotta use the 5 hole spacer plate that comes with the bearing kit when going disc setup , if not the half shafts will enter the axle tubes another 1/8th inch & butt up against thrust block destroying the green bearings.

latil · Post by **latil** » Sun Oct 31, 10 2:37 pm

The green bearings that I have seen are not proper deep groove radial ball thrust bearings made for heavy side loading,hence,especially on our winding roads littered with roundabouts,the bearing is suffering very loads in the wrong areas.
Expect 20K miles on our roads with any sort of heavy foot driving.
An example of the correct bearing for the job is a morris minor front wheel bearing,deep groove,non adjustable ball races,good for 50K-80K miles with no issues.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Oct 31, 10 3:19 pm

Morris Minors were famous for their front wheels snapping off.

Mopar Muscle Association UK

Green Bearings, GOOD OR BAD!!!

Green Bearings, GOOD OR BAD!!!

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