help electrics

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jun 05, 05 5:10 pm

Hi, having problems with our 68 coronet, will not charge when all electrics on, would like to change to all in one alternator, any information gratefully accepted, thanx Dave.

TrevD · Post by **TrevD** » Sun Jun 05, 05 5:22 pm

Dave , i hate to say it but a modern alternator is probably the cheapest option , how original is your car , if its a numbers matching car then it needs to be all original but if not you can change to a modern alternator with built in regulator quite easily (ive done this on my duster). on my 440 i will be running a 1 wire japanese alternator , thay are verry small and verry reliable.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jun 05, 05 5:30 pm

Hi Trev, it is a numbers matching car, but what do u call original, got different headers, diff manifold n carb and electronic ignition, this is why i dont know what to do, thanx.

TrevD · Post by **TrevD** » Sun Jun 05, 05 6:20 pm

to put an original ( new ) alternator in will cost ( at last years prices)$89.95 , the regulator will be $29.95 (original mopar)so that would be abbout ?130 to your door , that dosnt sound too bad to me and it keeps it all original. a modern european alternator would cost ?60ish and then you need to do all the modifications to make it fit (physical and electrical)

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jun 05, 05 6:40 pm

H Trev, yes that prob best option, but do u av any idea what problem is.....when sat on tick over with everything on its draining battery, am i looking at right solution to my problem, or any other ideas what it could b, thanx, Dave.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jun 05, 05 6:43 pm

I can do you a new electronic voltage regulator posted to your door for ?21.75 if you need one

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jun 05, 05 6:57 pm

Hi Will, dont know that much about electrics, really dont know which way t go for best option, thanx for the offer, need to chat more, bit difficult just now, friends just dropped in, get back on later if poss, Dave., could do with speaking on phone really, Dave.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Jun 07, 05 5:54 pm

I'm sorry if I'm hijacking this thread a bit but whilst we are on the subject of electrics, can someone tell me where the sodding ballast resistor is on a 68 383 sat? The coil I've just aquired needs it removing, but I wouldn't know what it looked like or where it is to save my life!

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Tue Jun 07, 05 5:57 pm

Shoud be on the firewall, here is one I saw earlier!

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Jun 07, 05 6:27 pm

Ah-hah! Found it, now to remove it do I just take the cables that enter each end and join them together or is that likely to result in me being reduced to a pair of smouldering boots?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Jun 07, 05 6:49 pm

This is for a pertronix flame thrower and the instructions say that it needs to run without a resistor. Is everyone now going to tell me that this is a bad idea?