play in steering still after restoration 67 gtx ?
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play in steering still after restoration 67 gtx ?
ive restored my 67 gtx with new suspension, new adjustable top and lower rose jointed arms, rebuilt the steering column with repair kit, i have had front end caster, camber and tracking done and she drives straight but i still have play in steering wheel !!, i know there is a screw you can adjust but the manifold is in the way !, when the steering box was out this screw was real tight ???
two things you can adjust
one done off the car one done on the car
the bit that connects to the steering column is the screw or worm shaft
it has a splined end
on the screw runs the ball nut
its a nut filled with balls and it has big teeth
its big teeth are wedge shaped
across the teeth runs the sector shaft
it exits the bottom of the box and conects via the pitman arm to the cross link
it has big teeth meshed with the teeth on the ball nut.
the adjuster screw on the box
a allen headed stud with a lock nut
basically jams the teeth on the nut harder into the taper on the teeth of the sector shaft.
now you can or course undo the lock nut and wind in the allen stud further
and you will eventally make the steering tight in the middle
however this is a waste of time
if
1) its already tight in the middle
2) the screw shaft connecting to the steering column (that the toothy ballnut runs on, its got balls in it) is flaoting up and down in the case
to stop it floating up and down in the case
first back off the adjuster
then, and you will have to do this from below
the end of the box that faces the steering column has a hex shaped lock ring
its massive
hit it backwards with a wooden rod and a mallet to loosen
this unlocks the aluminium (note soft and easy broken) end of the box
you twist this to apply load to the bearings on the screw shaft.
right = tighter
idealy you'd do this off the car
and measure the restaince to turning with a 6 inch lever and spring balance
but frankly if the box has play i'd just nip it up a few mm tighter
put the lock ring back on
then
go back with the wheels off the ground
and wind box back and forth
do up the allen stud adjuster with wheels in the middle tight
check the steering wheel is stiff in the middle to turn
then back off the adjuster so its not stiff any more
if you have done all of this
you may now find that the steering pulls under power assist one way or the other, due to you aletering the postion of the inernals slightly in relation to that kinda seesaw valve that applies the assist presure
this is adjusted out by moveing the block that the power steeing pipes go into on the case
tiny smidge one way will make the steering wheel whip round to full lock one way
too much the other way makes it do the reverse
whatch ya thumbs
you have to get it just right.
dave
or
use a smaller steering wheel for MOT
they measure at the rim..
Dave
one done off the car one done on the car
the bit that connects to the steering column is the screw or worm shaft
it has a splined end
on the screw runs the ball nut
its a nut filled with balls and it has big teeth
its big teeth are wedge shaped
across the teeth runs the sector shaft
it exits the bottom of the box and conects via the pitman arm to the cross link
it has big teeth meshed with the teeth on the ball nut.
the adjuster screw on the box
a allen headed stud with a lock nut
basically jams the teeth on the nut harder into the taper on the teeth of the sector shaft.
now you can or course undo the lock nut and wind in the allen stud further
and you will eventally make the steering tight in the middle
however this is a waste of time
if
1) its already tight in the middle
2) the screw shaft connecting to the steering column (that the toothy ballnut runs on, its got balls in it) is flaoting up and down in the case
to stop it floating up and down in the case
first back off the adjuster
then, and you will have to do this from below
the end of the box that faces the steering column has a hex shaped lock ring
its massive
hit it backwards with a wooden rod and a mallet to loosen
this unlocks the aluminium (note soft and easy broken) end of the box
you twist this to apply load to the bearings on the screw shaft.
right = tighter
idealy you'd do this off the car
and measure the restaince to turning with a 6 inch lever and spring balance
but frankly if the box has play i'd just nip it up a few mm tighter
put the lock ring back on
then
go back with the wheels off the ground
and wind box back and forth
do up the allen stud adjuster with wheels in the middle tight
check the steering wheel is stiff in the middle to turn
then back off the adjuster so its not stiff any more
if you have done all of this
you may now find that the steering pulls under power assist one way or the other, due to you aletering the postion of the inernals slightly in relation to that kinda seesaw valve that applies the assist presure
this is adjusted out by moveing the block that the power steeing pipes go into on the case
tiny smidge one way will make the steering wheel whip round to full lock one way
too much the other way makes it do the reverse
whatch ya thumbs
you have to get it just right.
dave
or
use a smaller steering wheel for MOT

Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
- aussie pete
- Posts: 374
- Joined: Wed Feb 28, 07 5:58 pm
- Location: Stretton Under Fosse
- aussie pete
- Posts: 374
- Joined: Wed Feb 28, 07 5:58 pm
- Location: Stretton Under Fosse
try what aussie pete says, put the belt on and run the motor, mine’s the same … bit of play when the motor is off, fine with motor runningpaddysplymouth wrote:its not the power steering as i have taken belt off and its defo the box

Si
1970 Charger 500
383 | 4bbl | 727 column | PAS | PAB | buckets/buddy - check out my photos HERE
If you don't want another same old brand-new car ... you could be DODGE MATERIAL
1970 Dodge Charger Registry - https://www.1970chargerregistry.com/
1970 Charger 500
383 | 4bbl | 727 column | PAS | PAB | buckets/buddy - check out my photos HERE
If you don't want another same old brand-new car ... you could be DODGE MATERIAL
1970 Dodge Charger Registry - https://www.1970chargerregistry.com/
aussie pete wrote:my car failed its mot 15 years ago for excess play in the steering box, i then took the car to an mot station that knew what they were on about and they checked the play with the engine running (this takes up the back lash in the box),..the car has passed its mot every year since.
X2 on this one.
Compared to modern R&P these old ball 'n nut power steering mopars are like steering a bowl of jelly at the best of times.
Engine must be running for MOT test on power steering.
service manual
well part of it
for a VH valiant
but face it all chrylser cars were more or less the same from 1962 up tpo about 1974
http://www.hemi6pack.com/knowledgebase/vhmanual/
you may have to become a member tired fudgeing it with my Username and password in the URL but didn't work
i can howver get access to this directory with no login which is odd
doesn't cost nuffin
Dave
well part of it
for a VH valiant
but face it all chrylser cars were more or less the same from 1962 up tpo about 1974
http://www.hemi6pack.com/knowledgebase/vhmanual/
you may have to become a member tired fudgeing it with my Username and password in the URL but didn't work
i can howver get access to this directory with no login which is odd
doesn't cost nuffin
Dave
Last edited by Dave999 on Tue Jul 26, 11 10:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
Paddy i have posted the relevant scans from the workshop manual on here so many times over the years it is getting boring.paddysplymouth wrote:cheers guys for the replies, although one dave is a really helpfull kinda guy where as the other shouldnt have even bothered posting ! its not the power steering as i have taken belt off and its defo the box, im running short on time but will try look at it thanks
I don't mind helping people out as long as they do their part. You are just using the good people in this club. If you would just TRY to help yourself now and again you would get a better response.
Working on a car without the manual handy is just working in the dark. God help the guy that eventually buys that car from you.
Paddy, we all love Dave dearly. He is a top notch bloke and brilliant on the Accordion. Apparently he invented corduroy too, as well as the electric kettle.
Have a look at the stickies in the tech section. He has posted a wealth of information to help us all with the basics. The information is all on the site, but people rarely look for it before asking. This has gone on for years, hence Dave's exasperated reply. No offence would have been meant mate.
Have a look at the stickies in the tech section. He has posted a wealth of information to help us all with the basics. The information is all on the site, but people rarely look for it before asking. This has gone on for years, hence Dave's exasperated reply. No offence would have been meant mate.

look just dont reply to anything i may post, there are helpfull people on here and i always thank them for advice, you have been cheeky in past posts so i have no time for you or your arrogance appriciate it if you just did not reply, my car is absolute fine and would never be for sale to likes of you