HELP!! Torsion bar problem

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Sun Nov 13, 11 7:49 pm

OK, im confused! After getting the engine, gearbox ans subframe fitted in a couple of hours, i turned to fitting the torsion bars.

Simple i thought!

Sadly not.

Im either missing something or ive been a bit dumb when rebushing my lower arms.

Basically, when i slide the torsion bar through, obviosuly it engages in the hex on the lower arm. My problem is that this seems to be incorrectly located? ie, i either have to have the arm pushed right down so it is touching the subframe before it will slide in, but i cant pivot it round far enough without lifting the car to connect the upper arm, or i move round a sixth of a turn and slide it in. But then this is too far the other way? Or at least it sems it. the finger that the hieght adjuster bolt touches is only 1/2 inch below the chassis rail. Cant belive this is right either.

My question is, apart from what the hell have i done, is is the "finger" indexable to the hex. ie could i have assembled it wrong?

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Nov 13, 11 8:19 pm

Hi Roger, there is no way of indexing, you will have to make a choice on the "Flat" to pick. I would back the torsion bar tension bolt all the way out and then have a play.

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Sun Nov 13, 11 8:25 pm

hi Pete, tension bolt is out completely, ie not even on the arm!

Having further perused the internet, it seems that the hex at each end should be roughly 30 degrees off from the other end. Mine seen to be the same, ie not offset.

They are not the original bars, which i suppose i should have though of sooner!

So the bars might be wrong?

drewcrane · Post by **drewcrane** » Sun Nov 13, 11 9:10 pm

There should be one marked p for passenger or d for driver perhaps you have them switched, there is a right and a left I am sure of that

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Sun Nov 13, 11 9:25 pm

drewcrane wrote:There should be one marked p for passenger or d for driver perhaps you have them switched, there is a right and a left I am sure of that

They are indeed marked left and right. I fitted (or tried to) the right one to the right side

It was the first thing i double checked.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Nov 13, 11 9:28 pm

I have some spares if you get really scuck...

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Sun Nov 13, 11 9:32 pm

Ive just returned from the garage after a light bulb moment of remembering where my old ones were!

Ive checked them and they do indeed have a 30 degree offset on the hex from end to end.

I think that confirms my problem - maybe?

Pete, thanks for your offer. I dont suppose you have any 960thou ones? My originals are 920. I wanted to stiffen them up a bit as it wa a bit floppy with the 920's

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Nov 13, 11 9:41 pm

I will have a check, but unlikely....

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Sun Nov 13, 11 9:51 pm

steveo · Post by **steveo** » Sun Nov 13, 11 10:11 pm

just for info & might be of help this is
how i done mine / do mine ( MP 1inch bars ) some aftermarket bars are not marked LH & RH now , with the upper control arm bolted to the spindle , remove the upper bump stops & shocks slacken off or remove bar link bushings on sawybar , with the adjuster removed !! bars go in easy , with the cam at lowest point , with slight wiggling on the lower control arm
, make sure its the same position each side , had them in & out quite a few times , easy lign up with what i removed & un done (( might be of help ))
also torque lower control arm pivet bolt once full weight is on the wheels !!

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Sun Nov 13, 11 10:16 pm

steveo wrote:just for info & might be of help this is
how i done mine / do mine ( MP 1inch bars ) some aftermarket bars are not marked LH & RH now , with the upper control arm bolted to the spindle , remove the upper bump stops & shocks slacken off or remove bar link bushings on sawybar , with the adjuster removed !! bars go in easy , with the cam at lowest point , with slight wiggling on the lower control arm
, make sure its the same position each side , had them in & out quite a few times , easy lign up with what i removed & un done (( might be of help ))
also torque lower control arm pivet bolt once full weight is on the wheels !!

Apart from the fact i had the upper arm disconnected, that what i did. But becuse the hex is 30degrees out, i have to push the arm down until it contacts the subframe. TB just goes in.

But thats the problem, The car would be way to high, assuming i could even get the upper arm reconnected. 30 degrees difference in the lower arm angle is way more than the adjuster can cope with.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Nov 13, 11 10:26 pm

The bigger aftermarket bars are usually not offset.

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Sun Nov 13, 11 10:33 pm

Dave wrote:The bigger aftermarket bars are usually not offset.

MAYBE THE AFTERMARKET ONES DONT HAVE THE SAME TWIST CHARACTERISTICS OFF ORIGINAL BARS AND NEED THE ARM TO BE DOWN LOWER TO GET THE TENSION NEEDED , I JUST FITTED AFTERMARKET BARS TO A 70 CHARGER RT AND WAS SHOCKED HOW FAR I HAD TO SCREW THE ADJUSTERS THROUGHTO GET THE RIDE HEIGHT HOW I WANTED IT, THE CAR NOW RIDES LOVELY THOUGH

SORRY FOR shoutin

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Sun Nov 13, 11 10:35 pm

Dave wrote:The bigger aftermarket bars are usually not offset.

Mmmm, i can see the logic as they get bigger as they will deflect less, but these are only 960 thou. but then you would fit them effectively with the arms nearer the horizontal. But i cant do that because the "finger" will hit the bottom of the chassis rail on full bump.

Ive been and had another look. R/H side no offset, L/H has about 10 degrees, which i hadn't noticed before - mainly because it was still n the floor as id started on the right.

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Sun Nov 13, 11 10:41 pm

Roger wrote:
Dave wrote:The bigger aftermarket bars are usually not offset.
Mmmm, i can see the logic as they get bigger as they will deflect less, but these are only 960 thou. but then you would fit them effectively with the arms nearer the horizontal. But i cant do that because the "finger" will hit the bottom of the chassis rail on full bump.

Ive been and had another look. R/H side no offset, L/H has about 10 degrees, which i hadn't noticed before - mainly because it was still n the floor as id started on the right.

i had the arms swung down when i slid them in,