Page 1 of 3
Motor plate
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 12 11:42 pm
by db
I'm about to make a plate for my hot-360-totin' Belve.
Anyone have one they photo for me?
Is a mid-plate really necessary? (trans mount is poly)
Any advice on dimensions and frame mounting would be great please, mancini, chassis engineering, etc sell 'em from 3/16 to 3/8 thick!
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 12 9:02 am
by Pete
Mid plate not necessary.
However on high horsepower units it pays to fit bars to prevent forward and aft travel as the motor WILL flex a motor plat, no matter how thick the material. The Sox had them from the trans cross member to the gearbox to save space but many people put them from the frame rails to the motor lugs.
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 12 10:27 am
by db
Nice one, ta
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 12 3:56 pm
by Jon Connolly
Also Alli for your front one and mild steel for your mid plate. This is the Moroso front plate with 2 no M8 bolts each side straight onto chassis rails
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 12 7:19 pm
by db
Is that your plate Jon? Where's the alternator sit
Is 3/8" right for the front?
I've realised i'll need to make an equal thickness spacer for the crank pulley so the belt lines up!
I'm really struggling to find pics on t'internet, looks like i'll have to rely on good old-fashined over-engineering
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 12 7:30 pm
by Jon Connolly
This is mine Paul ... give me a few weeks and I`ll send you some better pics ( knackered my back )
The water pump pully is the " thickness of the plate " out of line ... this can be sorted by machining the back of the water pump pully and front of water pump pulley flange i.e. if the motor plate is 3/8 then machine 3/16 off each face then put the pulley on with the std bolts and everything lines up
Make sense ???
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 12 7:48 pm
by Pete
If you inset a Mid plate you will have hell to pay working out where to insert the spacer on the transmission.
On an auto you would (I think) insert a spacer the same thickness as the mid plate between crank and Flex plate.
On your application I do not think I would bother with one........your call....
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 12 8:15 pm
by db
Thanks Pete- I've no desire to use a mid-plate unless absolutely essential, it sounds like a right ball-ache to make!
I did see mention of a flywheel spacer so it must be done virtually the same on a manual.
Jon- thanks for the pics. I'm hoping to start on it tomorrow if i can source a plate but i'f i'm struggling i'll let you know.
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 12 8:25 pm
by Pete
Duncan's mate used to make them a while back, and of course there is TrevD....
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 12 10:54 pm
by db
I'm happy to make it myself (money's tight!)
I'd like to gather as much info as i can first though.
You'd be amazed what you can achieve with a grinder, a holesaw, a steady hand and lots of patience
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 12 10:58 pm
by Pete
I think I paid £50 for my plate off Duncan
Posted: Tue Jan 17, 12 10:18 am
by db
Ah! That may tip the time vs money balance....
Posted: Tue Jan 17, 12 6:51 pm
by db
Dunc's mate no longer does it.
3/8" (10mm) ally plate only available new in 2400mm x 1200mm sheets @ £500
I'll be starting my tour of every scrappy in N Wales tomorrow!
Posted: Tue Jan 17, 12 11:22 pm
by Mick
I used a jig saw and hole cutter.
Mick
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 12 7:33 am
by latil
$122,but it's only 1/4",some I've found are 3/16"
http://www.campbellenterprises.com/motorplates.php