Fitting Windscreen to 68 Charger
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Fitting Windscreen to 68 Charger
Hello some advice needed please. About to fit the windscreen to the Charger and I have purchased the gasket from Yearone. Does anyone know if bead lock is needed for this model?
I have been informed on good authority that B bodies do not require bead lock; as the gasket has a 'self locking strip'. However the gasket (which is labelled correctly for the car and fits) appears to have a groove for bead.
Is this groove for something else?
Any tips / advice or directions to a website very welcome.
Thanks Dave
I have been informed on good authority that B bodies do not require bead lock; as the gasket has a 'self locking strip'. However the gasket (which is labelled correctly for the car and fits) appears to have a groove for bead.
Is this groove for something else?
Any tips / advice or directions to a website very welcome.
Thanks Dave
no lock strip on a charger,i think once you have your screen trim on the lip on it should sit in the groove,dont forget to use the butyl tape if you can ,as this really does help to seal the screen
Last edited by terryr on Sun Dec 09, 12 9:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
here ya go ,different car ,but you get the idea
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/proj ... to_01.html
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/proj ... to_01.html
Windscreen
Thank you - please keep the tips / ideas / links flowing.
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what the other guys say
also
make sure you have & fit the correct revel moulding clips , put a dob of grease inside the clip , will help/ be easier to engage the stainless trim , run a bead of non hardening glass sealer , i always used Arbomast , where the purple lines are in below pictures , make sure the windshield gasket is engaged with the three metal tabs in third picture , then fit gasket ,
once fitted, with a brush etc & washing up liquid , lightly coat the edge of the channel on the gasket where the glass is going to slide into. , if its the original glass , they well heavy , put a blanket on the hood with big piece of card board & or a few large cushions , to lay the glass on , while getting into position , with a helper , with one person each side slide the glass up so it engages into the top edge of the gasket channel first , then while helper is stopping the glass sliding down , carefully lift the rubber over the the glass , so it droppes into the channel & adding a bit of pressure as you go , use plastic filler spreaders & or windshield push sticks , to do this , all the while your helper is pushing the glass up into the top channel . (( never push middle ))
when fitted , give the glass a few slap type pushes with the palm of your hand , around the edges of the glass towards the rubber , ( don't go mad , ) to make sure every thing is seated correctaly & aligned ,
clip the seam on the gasket together , using plastic filler spreader or push stick , ,
then pump arbo sealer down between the glass & windshield rubber , will need , the correct flat nozzel or a small thin one , don't go mad , soon as you move the sealer gun with tip along the squishes the excess sealer out , good idea so spray the glass with glass cleaner before you do this , makes clean up of excess sealer easy ,

also
make sure you have & fit the correct revel moulding clips , put a dob of grease inside the clip , will help/ be easier to engage the stainless trim , run a bead of non hardening glass sealer , i always used Arbomast , where the purple lines are in below pictures , make sure the windshield gasket is engaged with the three metal tabs in third picture , then fit gasket ,
once fitted, with a brush etc & washing up liquid , lightly coat the edge of the channel on the gasket where the glass is going to slide into. , if its the original glass , they well heavy , put a blanket on the hood with big piece of card board & or a few large cushions , to lay the glass on , while getting into position , with a helper , with one person each side slide the glass up so it engages into the top edge of the gasket channel first , then while helper is stopping the glass sliding down , carefully lift the rubber over the the glass , so it droppes into the channel & adding a bit of pressure as you go , use plastic filler spreaders & or windshield push sticks , to do this , all the while your helper is pushing the glass up into the top channel . (( never push middle ))
when fitted , give the glass a few slap type pushes with the palm of your hand , around the edges of the glass towards the rubber , ( don't go mad , ) to make sure every thing is seated correctaly & aligned ,
clip the seam on the gasket together , using plastic filler spreader or push stick , ,
then pump arbo sealer down between the glass & windshield rubber , will need , the correct flat nozzel or a small thin one , don't go mad , soon as you move the sealer gun with tip along the squishes the excess sealer out , good idea so spray the glass with glass cleaner before you do this , makes clean up of excess sealer easy ,
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Fitting windscreen
I am very grateful to everyone for the contributions and photos provided; they are very helpful.
One more question if I may to satisfy the niggling doubt.
What's the 'spare' channel on the gasket for if no locking strip is needed?
Thank you
Dave
One more question if I may to satisfy the niggling doubt.
What's the 'spare' channel on the gasket for if no locking strip is needed?
Thank you
Dave
there is no spare channel ,
& there is no seperate locking strip like on some cars ,
thats the open locking strip actually in the rubber , it clips in on its self , when its open , it makes the gasket flexable & more malleable so you can slide the glass under & into the top channel plus leaver the rubber over the glass ,
*** remember its not a string in glass **** you fit the gasket first to the car !!!!!!
once the glass is fitted , you then close this strip up this gives it rigidity & strength to the edge of rubber over the glass , if it did not have this opening & closing channel & was solid , the rubber would be to rigid/ hard to lift over the glass when fitting , or at the other end of the spectrum , if it was soft & malleable , with out a locking strip for strength , worse case when you slam the door / driving with windows down /internal air pressure in the car could pop the screen , it just simply presses together after the glass is installed , might need a bit more washing up liquid , & bit of work with a plastic spreader ,
it sounds far more complicated than it is ,
& there is no seperate locking strip like on some cars ,
thats the open locking strip actually in the rubber , it clips in on its self , when its open , it makes the gasket flexable & more malleable so you can slide the glass under & into the top channel plus leaver the rubber over the glass ,
*** remember its not a string in glass **** you fit the gasket first to the car !!!!!!
once the glass is fitted , you then close this strip up this gives it rigidity & strength to the edge of rubber over the glass , if it did not have this opening & closing channel & was solid , the rubber would be to rigid/ hard to lift over the glass when fitting , or at the other end of the spectrum , if it was soft & malleable , with out a locking strip for strength , worse case when you slam the door / driving with windows down /internal air pressure in the car could pop the screen , it just simply presses together after the glass is installed , might need a bit more washing up liquid , & bit of work with a plastic spreader ,
it sounds far more complicated than it is ,
Windscreen
Steveo
Thanks very much for your reply.
Dave
Thanks very much for your reply.
Dave