oil filter still leaking

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 10, 05 10:38 am

New filter, new gasket, everything clean. Leaked at 60 psi.
Looks like dropping the sump is a whole pain with having to remove steering leakage to inspect the oil pump. Ive had a couple of references to relief valve pressure. Before I strip the whole the sump/pump down is there any way of KNOWING that the relief valve is not functuining?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 10, 05 4:20 pm

stage 42 - Tried TWO gaskets on the filter to block plate (desperate now). Leaked still, but much more slowly even at 60psi+. Wonder why the standard gasket appears to be too thin..

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Aug 10, 05 5:25 pm

I don't think you have a stuck relief valve Miles, the problem is the filter is not sealing, you just need to figure out why.....

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 10, 05 6:00 pm

Thanks Blue, certainly the lesser of the two evils!

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Aug 10, 05 6:14 pm

You'll get there mate! If you had excessive oil pressure and the filter was sealing then you'd balloon or blow the canister off the filter before it started to leak at the seal, don't ask me how I know that...

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Wed Aug 10, 05 6:17 pm

I assume you are following a manual?

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Wed Aug 10, 05 8:08 pm

Are you certain the oil gallery plug has been reinstalled?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Aug 11, 05 11:28 am

I dont know if it has been uninstalled! I thought if that were the case i'd have no oil pressure? I put a piece of steel rod down the oil pressure gauge hole in the block and it met resistance in accordance with info I have, i have excellent oil pressure too.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Aug 11, 05 11:30 am

Kev, if the plug had been removed at the machine shop they would have let me know i'm sure. any hardware they removed (dowels etc) they gave back to me with the machined block. They also assembled the bottom end too.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Aug 11, 05 1:56 pm

About priming. How long (cant find this answer anywhere) do you prime (using electric drill) before turning the engine thru 90 deg cycles? Is it until oil appearing in the heads. I asume the latter is correct but the oil filter plate seal goes before I get to that level!

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Aug 11, 05 2:12 pm

I just do it until I get some pressure starting to read.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Aug 11, 05 2:30 pm

Right Dave, pressure reads within a few seconds and builds well. It occurred to me that all these leaking gaskets i'm gettting are under a abnormal situation. i.e the engine is not turning and distributing oil in the way that it was intended.
Terry advised me not to go mad with the priming hence my previous question.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Aug 11, 05 2:52 pm

There is no law that says you have to prime anyway. Lots of people get away without doing it at all.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Aug 11, 05 3:25 pm

Well its certainly primed by now. what concerns is whether the filter seal will blow again if i progress to start up point. All i have left to do is fit carb, time it and try.
I have fitted 7 different combinations of gasket (inc rubber) all have failed under high pressure. Doesnt seem right to me.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Aug 11, 05 3:44 pm

No carb?

I usually assemple the whole engine inc plug leads and dizzy cap.

Then I prime and all I have to do is drop the dizzy in to fire it up. That way the oil does not have time to drain away and it builds pressure quicker.