Mopar Muscle Association UK

Some of you will know of the overheating problems I have had with the 383 in the Satty. I have bought another 383 in the interim, but, last year I dropped my Brodix B1BS heads of with Rob Loaring at ICE Automotive for porting.
Recently, I dropped off the 440 block, that, was part of a motor I had bought from Justin ( Dart Vader) some years ago. I was on a std bore and being a 73 block, the pistons were 150 thou below deck, so, I have bought some 6.760 rods from Turnip and a set of Mahle 30 over pistons and rings.
Picked up the heads and bored block today for a test build before final machining / balancing.
I have a Comp cams solid roller, Indy 440 intake ( and a MP tunnel ram, not sure which to use yet as carb costs are doubled).
Looking forward to hours of fun in the garage now.
Cheers Chris Birdman

Looking good mate

Always great to get a load of shiney bits and start rebuilding!

Really hope this one gives you some trouble free motoring Chris......Be good to see it back on the road and running strong!

Thanks John and Dave.
I have to say that buying used parts is a bit of false economy, as, I have been advised to replace the springs and valves of the heads. I have bought the springs and valves to come later on.
Chris

Impressive.

Are those heads "O-ringed"?

Mmm tasty!!

Nice heads Chris, did you get a flow sheet ?
Mick

Peter, yes heads are o-ringed, I will use copper head gaskets.
Mick, no flow sheet yet, will test build the motor and return all to ICE and get it done then. Looks like the heads have had a hard life, as, I am having to get new valves and locks + the new springs already bought. Still as a bonus I'm keeping the titanium retainers.
Checking springs installed on # 1 , and fitting ARP head stud kit.
Cheers chaps

Birdman wrote:Peter, yes heads are o-ringed, I will use copper head gaskets.
Mick, no flow sheet yet, will test build the motor and return all to ICE and get it done then. Looks like the heads have had a hard life, as, I am having to get new valves and locks + the new springs already bought. Still as a bonus I'm keeping the titanium retainers.
Checking springs installed on # 1 , and fitting ARP head stud kit.
Cheers chaps

you should have a reciever groove in the block to recieve the o rings

That's why I picked up on it, Duncan!

Sorry. Off topic I know but curious about the o rings.
When I built my 1260 motor for my bike I used a fine gauge wire set in a rebated groove with a cometic copper gasket. ( recommended by a drag bike builder )
Worked a treat.
My question is why such a large gauge o ring ? And as Dunc pointed out would require a receiver groove.
Would the system I used not cope with the pressures ?

Sorry for hijack

should be lively,what compression will it be to warrant O rings ,I take it you wont be filling up at sainsburys

Mossy68 wrote:Sorry. Off topic I know but curious about the o rings.
When I built my 1260 motor for my bike I used a fine gauge wire set in a rebated groove with a cometic copper gasket. ( recommended by a drag bike builder )
Worked a treat.
My question is why such a large gauge o ring ? And as Dunc pointed out would require a receiver groove.
Would the system I used not cope with the pressures ?

Sorry for hijack

well in theory you need the groove so as you clamp the head down the gasket is forced in to the groove by the metal o ring i had a mtr with no groove it would not stop leaking water as the head could not clamp down correctly had someone make me a tool that fitted the bore used a cutting tool and made my own groove it worked perfectly after that no water leaks

A set of bike barrels are alloy and an RB block is cast iron.
The alloy is indented by the tool steel 'O' ring to some extent but cast iron won't be so easily bullied

Adrian Worman wrote:A set of bike barrels are alloy and an RB block is cast iron.
The alloy is indented by the tool steel 'O' ring to some extent but cast iron won't be so easily bullied

Good point Ade. Now why didn't I think of that
Cheers