8 3/4 Axle Case Conundrum

[Philth]

Hi All,

I am rebuilding an 8 3/4 axle for my Challenger and have hit a bit of a snag.

I have finished the "489" diff unit (new gears, bearings, yoke, bolts, etc. ) and am going to assemble it all, with new half-shafts (fitted with "green" bearings) to a refurbished axle case.

However, when checking the spring perches on the refurbished case with a digital angle finder there is 1.1 degrees difference between them! There is no sign of twisting (outside, or inside - looking at the welded seams), so could they have been wrong at the factory?

What would be a recommended course of action - grind off one of the perches (which one?) and reposition, or fit a shim (again - to which one?)?

I take it that fitting the axle with the perches 1 degree out is not recommended......right?!?!

Thanks for any advice.

Phil.

PS this is a spare case and diff, so I can swap the old one out with the rebuilt one when ready.

[autofetish]

Imagen it's from factors the factory welding on mine was skocking

1.1 degrees I bet you would never notice if you ran it like that

[Blue]

Not uncommon Phil. Fit the case, check the pinion angle and deal with it then if you have too with angled shims. You can also make small adjustments by slicing the mount most of the way front to back, whack it with a hammer to create the angle you need and then weld up the gap.

[Dave-R]

My preferred method would be to cut off the factory perches. Then mount the complete axle in the car with the new ones just clamped in place.

Then centre the axle under the car (often not done well by the factory) and get the pinion angle exactly where you want it (often not done well by the factory) before welding them in place.

[Mick]

My preferred method would be to cut off the factory perches. Then mount the complete axle in the car with the new ones just clamped in place.

Then centre the axle under the car (often not done well by the factory) and get the pinion angle exactly where you want it (often not done well by the factory) before welding them in place.

This is what i did on my Dart but for a mild street car, i'd probably do what Blue suggests.
Mick

[Guy]

I would use these http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/noname45.html or as Blue suggests
Dave's way is the correct way but loads of hassle and i like simple solutions

[Philth]

Thanks for the tips, guys

I was wondering if I was being a bit too cautious over 1.1 degree difference (especially considering that these cars weren't exactly the best built at the time)....

[Dave-R]

Dave's way is the correct way but loads of hassle and i like simple solutions

And since when is ANYTHING on these cars not a hassle? One more in the equation is neither here no there.

[Guy]

Too true Dave