Mopar Muscle Association UK

I am currently trying to change the rear wheel bearings on my 1969 Dodge Monaco Coupe - but I'm a bit stumped as to how they come off? I've attached a picture that shows the bearing behind a retaining ring - but this is smooth with no obvious way of detaching it?

Think I cut mine so far and then used a cold chisle?

or drill it with a bit 3/4 of its width and just deep enough not to hit the axle and do the same


bearing kit comes with a new 1

sacrificial part

you will probably end updoing the same for the bearing inner as well

after you have destroyed the rest of it and sprinkled rollers allover the place trying to take it off



Dave

Getting it back together is a little tricky too, the retaining ring is a shrink fit. You need to get the ring cherry red, drop it on and whack it into position with a piece of long tube. You have to work very quickly because if it cools before you get it into position you're knackered, you won't be able to heat it again on the shaft so it's cut it off and start again with a new bearing.....

Here is how I do it.


http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... c&start=60

Many thanks - that's a huge help. When I bought the bearings I was also supplied with the two seals pictured but I can't see the old seals on the axel or the half shaft?

Plus the sound from the rear of the car was more of a whiring sound than a grinding noise? Could the seals have been left out by the last owner and
Without them diff has run dry making the whiring / gear noise? or are they under the current bearing and ring set somewhere?

If anyone knows which way round these seals are supposed to go and where please let me know.

Thanks again to everyone who's commented do far on this post.

The fatter one goes in the axle case, flat side out.

i agree if you have a press.

i know exactly how thick the ring is cos i measured it

set the pillar drill up to go no further ding it with a punch, thin drill fat drill

drilled it and hit it with the chissel at a slight angle, stretched it

ring off

was easier than usuing a cutting disk in the angle grinder

the bearing inner was a pig

no drilling that so the bench grinder came out...

nobody died and i still have both eyes ......

needs must an-all-that

Dave

Just started doing this on the Challenger after a frightening drive today where the car felt like it was steering from the back, had at least 5 - 10mm movement at each drum with wheel moving in and out.
Have taken out pass side shaft and managed to get the retaining collar off with careful grinding and chiseling, now need to get the bearings off which doesn't look so easy. Do I need a puller for the bearing or is it slowly grind and chisel everything off?

If you have not got a puller then you will have to dismantle the roller cage and then grind off the remainder of the bearing. Are you going for Green Bearings?

Just read Anton's thread about getting it all off, which sounds like I am going about it the right way, but fitting it all back in with standard bearings (not green ones), do they need to be shimmed or set up at all or just pushed into place with a press?
Sorry for the stupid questions, I've never had a halfshaft out before, which was surprisingly simple, or changed a rear wheel bearing.
I did read somewhere about there being adjustment on the half shafts one side? I found a locking tab under one of the 5 nuts securing the half shaft, but it hadn't engaged on the ring with the holes in. We also found polishing marks on the outer face of the outer bearing, as if the whole lot has been spinning in the axle case. Could this be possible if the bearing had seized from sitting for a long time (15 years or so)? This might explain the horrible scuffing noises I had plus the axle drone at higher speeds.

Pete wrote:If you have not got a puller then you will have to dismantle the roller cage and then grind off the remainder of the bearing. Are you going for Green Bearings?

Having read a bit, the opinion is green bearings are ok for straight line but not for going round corners with any side load. Are green bearings easier to fit. Are they of benefit over standard taper bearings?
I am all for keeping things standard for simplicity, I just want reliability, and the car back on the road.

I do wonder if I moved a bearing at the back doing the low friction bowl at the Porsche place at Silverstone, where it was given a bit of a sideways hammering.

With standard bearings, you adjust the pass side for around 10 - 18 thou clearance and then secure the adjuster with the tag.

The Pass side axle "pushes" on the Beryllium shim in the Diff to pre-load the Drivers side shaft and bearing.

So the adjustment is once the shaft goes back into the axle case, not how far it is pressed onto the shaft?

The photo at the top of this thread of the shows the bit with the holes in for locating the tag, is that only fitted on the pass side then? (I havent got the other side out yet, drive isn't wide enough).