Mopar Muscle Association UK

I gave up on the planned trip to Shaky today so been reading up on a couple of jobs to do next on the Fury....

One of them is to upgrade the single circuit system to dual circuit. I have a dual circuit MC and associated bits (thanks Will) but just have a couple of questions as I am planning to renew all the brake lines while I am at it. Im saturated with the web now so need a bit of clarity from you fellas please...

1. What is the exact diameter of the tube I need (I used 3/16 on my Polara)

2. I have used copper in the past and works fine. Is it worth going to steel?? SORTED

3. Will a normal double flare vice mounted tool work ok on steel ? SORTED

4. I have a couple of options when swapping, one of which involves blocking the rear brake 'in' port on the union block by the MC and running a new rear pipe up to the front chamber of the MC (effectively using the block to deal with the front pipes only). What is the best way to block a port? Ive seen a small piece of pipe flared, put into a fitting and then the open end is squashed flat, folded over and soldered. Is that ok or are blanking plugs available? I have the option to put a later block in which utilises all the ports so really just exploring and researching all available options before I get stuck in.

5. Lastly, if I renew all the pipes, what is the best way to bleed the whole system? It will be empty so will I need a suction type bleeder for my compressor or is there another way?? I will be putting new flexis on as well so the system will be dry.


Thanks in advance

Cheers Steve

You will not be able to work / bend / flare steel with your gear.

I would stick to copper if you are not using ready-made lines....

Thanks Pete....thats one decision made....cheers!

..and if you are doing the whole system there is a correct sequence to do this....

Are you using an after-market proportioning (i.e. restrictor) valve in the rear line or are you using bits sourced from a later car?

I plan on using a whole dual circuit all drum brake system from a later car Pete. Apparently, all round drum systems don't need a proportioning valve and you can basically plumb the rear pipe directly to the front chamber of the MC and the fronts directly to the rear, using the original block as a means of joining the front pipes by blanking off the rear line input....

I would just install everything as it came off my car

The block has a bias in I think and a valve if you pop a front pipe you still have rears. Oh and a little light switche

I have the proper tool to flare can borrow if needed

You need to bench bleed master or us the gravity and open 1 week nipple trick give me a ding

I'm going to try and do everything from stainless 😁

Yes 3/16 don't use copper use nickel or a high nickel content copper pipe as coper is so soft

Pete it's all of my 68 charger master and position valve

Thanks Will...Im just a bit unsure about stripping the block down and trying to fix as you said. The manual says its not serviceable and dont want to break it.

Got access to the flaring kit but thanks for the offer mate. Need to get together again sometime to roll my fan shroud mount in your machine thingy and drop your Stella off

There is flare tools and flare tools

If your involves you twisting somthing to make the flare use mine lol

I'm sure there was a great post from Dave regarding the rebuilding the valve

You have rebuilt everything else now you scared on a little brass valve 💋

The wiser gentleman among us will know

Ive got access to a good quality vice held press thanks Will...did all my lines on the Polara with it last year

I dont want to crack that block open and ruin it just for the sake of a bit of research to be honest.The only difference between yours and mine is the valve inside which activates the warning light (which I dont have) and shuts off the faulty circuit in the event of a failure in either circuit which is the same as running the rear pipe direct to the master cyl and blanking the rear port on the block. No moving parts that way as both circuits are completely seperate. My dash doesnt have a warning light on it

Cheers Steve

I thought it also had a restrictor in it

Eg a brake bias front to rear

No sure

I dont think so Will but I may be wrong as usual. From all my reading it appears to be purely for newer cars than mine that had to have a brake failure warning light fitted by law. I read somewhere on a forum (so not 100% Gospel) that the bias is controled in the master cylinder but again, I dont know enough about it yet to be sure. Found a good article in Mopar Action that explains just running pipes straight to MC and using the block purely as a join between the front pipes but I cant find it again for another read

cheers Steve

The standard, nonadjustable valve was, of necessity, a compromise. The same valve was used on wagons and 2-door coupes, slant sixes and Hemicars, meaning that most cars rolled out of the assembly plant with less-than-ideal proportioning, characterized by a tendency toward early rear-wheel lockup.

Steve wrote:I dont think so Will but I may be wrong as usual. From all my reading it appears to be purely for newer cars than mine that had to have a brake failure warning light fitted by law. I read somewhere on a forum (so not 100% Gospel) that the bias is controled in the master cylinder but again, I dont know enough about it yet to be sure. Found a good article in Mopar Action that explains just running pipes straight to MC and using the block purely as a join between the front pipes but I cant find it again for another read

cheers Steve

On the challenger that ridiculous block is just a way of bringing the dash warning light on. I binned it in the end as it was a bugger to sort out, and just used a standard three way junction block off a t riumph herald to provide the junction for the front brakes. The block valve thing is not a bias valve.

Thanks for clarifying that Matt. CheersSteve