Rear Main Seal - has anyone used this???

[Pete]

Found this whilst looking for Rear Main Seal kits:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-Voya ... 27f14a9ec3

Is it worth a try?

DaveB and I had a bit of a chat on this as I had a lot of trouble on the last engine I did, and it seems I am not alone judging by a trawl of the US Chrysler sites...

I would be interested in people's view, thanks.......

Pete

[Dave-R]

I have used copper stuff like that in the past. It is good but I only ever used it in conjunction with the correct gasket or seal. It did the exhaust studs into the water jacket well too.

[Matt]

Apparently aftermarket cranks with smooth seal journals can be particularly problematic. A couple of very long threads on Moparts about this.

My 500" stroker has a rear main leak that I've tried to solve once without success.

[Pete]

Roydon and I did 4 (2 without putting the motor back in the car and getting Static leaks with the engine inclined) before we got it sorted. That was on a 512 Stroker crank.......very frustrating..........

[Adrian Worman]

I remember that Pete, having the block & caps bored don't help either.
Almost impossible unless you machine the seal cap as well.

[Pete]

We machined a cap and THAT leaked too!!

[Les Szabo]

Don't know if this helps?

http://www.manciniracing.com/rearmainbear.html

[Cannonball]

Found this whilst looking for Rear Main Seal kits:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-Voya ... 27f14a9ec3

Is it worth a try?

DaveB and I had a bit of a chat on this as I had a lot of trouble on the last engine I did, and it seems I am not alone judging by a trawl of the US Chrysler sites...

I would be interested in people's view, thanks.......

Pete

Dave has this issue with his hemi pete it becomes quite tiresome after a while you know you have done the job correctly yet still they leak,,,,
i pre soak the lip seals in a mix of old engine oil and urine for a few days not had any leaks since,

[Carl]

I had same issue when I first put the stroker back together. I 99% sorted it by applying a thick bead of oil resistant high temp sealer and leaving it over night to go off, that way it just squashes down rather than squeezes out the way it does when it's wet. I say 99% because I've just pulled engine out again not for that reason though and noticed a very small dribble of oil but no oil had ran down anywhere.

[Carl]

Ops double post

[Dave999]

i used one of these (obvioulsy in a bore suitable to my engine)

the one i have listed is for a 426 hemi
http://www.bestgasket.com/engine_catalo ... arsCID=426 Hemi.......[678]

trimmed ends back to the spring steel core

glued it into the houseing with semi setting flange sealer 3 mm cocked one way

super glued (bog standard super glue, sticks to the crank a bit but not bad) both ends and used a copper based RTV for the cap join

seems to be ok

i decided to move from a rope seal due to the knurl on the crank being worn.

to grind and polish and re knurl would have resulted in undersize and more leaks, so last regrind it just had a quick clean up.

rope for a knurled crank
rubber for smooth crank

the rubber seal has the knurl to its inner face at an angle that due to motion of the crank will drive the oil back into the case

they do 440s and all types of hemi
the bloke who runs the company won't respond to questions

the one listed is for a hemi

i used a 3880E the poly and streight 8 one in my aussie engine same cap bore and seal housing bore across smaller 50s and early 60s engines. obviously not as good as the spring loaded seal you have in your timing cover but a decent quality piece.

no idea what the other bits of rubber are for...not applicable to my oddity of an engine

here is a dealer who obvioulsy has managed to talk to the company

i got my seal off him
this is a listing for the 2.5 inch bore seal (i.e polys and L6s and L8s except slant). a hemi shares its seal with the slant 6

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Plymouth- ... be&vxp=mtr


Dave