Starting Problem

BUDGIE · Post by **BUDGIE** » Tue Oct 04, 05 10:03 am

440 six barrel satallite, instead of starting when key is turned, it starts when key is released? Any idea's chap's

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Tue Oct 04, 05 10:14 am

It sounds like the ignition is not getting 12v when the key ps in the start position but is when in the run position . I had this after I fitted the MSD to mine its a simple case of finding a wire that is hot when the key is in both, but goes cold when the key is in the off position

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Oct 04, 05 10:23 am

Could be the wiring on the ballast resistor mixed up maybe?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Oct 04, 05 10:23 am

I'm not thinking clearly.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Oct 15, 05 2:04 pm

Just change the ballast resistor, call Neil at USA Imports he has the MSD 8214 in stock it'll solve all your problems.

Are you using the old style points voltage regulator? If so ask Neil about the Resto electronic type or if this car is new enough to have the factory electronic V/R check out the Late Model regs from Neil. Some of these low end replacment regs will still spike the power and fry the ballast.

BUDGIE · Post by **BUDGIE** » Sat Oct 15, 05 3:23 pm

Cheers for info chaps, it was the ballast resistor, now starts perfect

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Oct 15, 05 4:04 pm

Yup.....if you own a Mopar you should have a spare ballast in the trunk.

Ballast resistors burn out because:

High Voltage
Voltage spikes
High resistence on wiring
Wrong type of coil
Poor or non-exsistent engine grounds
or the most common...No reason at all?

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Sat Oct 15, 05 4:16 pm

In Merry Olde England they tend to corrode as well

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Oct 15, 05 4:32 pm

I should also note here that not all ballast resitors are the same, they come in various levels of resistence. The 8214 or SMP RU-11 will deliver 10-10.5 volts to the coil on the run circuit whereas a stock ballast will deliver 5.5 to 6.5 volts.

You must use the correct voltage for the coil your using, our system is designed to run at 10 volts. A Blaster 2 coil will run fine on 10 volts but the life of the coil is diminished as it's designed more for a CD or Capacitor ignition system and shouldn't be used with a ECU style box. Won't hurt anything but the output to the plug is pretty weak and it starts to drop off quickly as RPM's increase, it's not designed to recharge and hold voltage until triggered lie the FBO coil.

BUDGIE · Post by **BUDGIE** » Sat Oct 15, 05 7:38 pm

Gordon Bennet

now that's a comprehensive reply

cheers don, i.o.u. a pint

and welcome to blighty mma.

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Sat Oct 15, 05 7:42 pm

My ballast went bad at the track and I just shorted it out. Man them coils sure can boil some oil out!

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Oct 16, 05 4:45 pm

Don't be offering too many pints, I may show up at your local pub sometime in 2006 and start charging all these pint credits to your bar tab.....LOL

Sure, your stock coils are 6V coils, they only get 12V on the start circuit so if you run them at 12 they'll overheat.

Look down in the wire socket you'll see a screw (If it's a good coil) you can remove the screw and inject some fresh 10W oil in it and it'lll be fine.

Your stock ignition system will at best produce 24,000 V to the plug, the FBO ignition system designed to run continuously at 10-10.5 volts will deliver 34-36KV to the plug through our ballast resistor. Run it direct to battery voltage for racing and it'll pump out 38-42KV, just don't run it constant for more than an hour or so. For street/strip applications we install a jumper wire and switch across the ballast resistor and flip it to full voltage when at the track.

The Ever Popular Orange Box has other issues.....because of the dwell required to recharge a coil in a ECU system the orange box will cause the output to drop to 16KV which we consider failure, it'll start dropping cylinders trying to keep up. They will also retard your timing by 6-8 degrees under even light load starting at about 4000 RPM and by 5200 your backed off. Works good to prevent detonation but makes no power.

We usually see .2 to .4 lower ET's just by swapping in the FBO Ignition kit, the cheapest most reliable HP you can buy.

You can actually watch you timing retard on most of the parts house ECU's with a dial back timing light, even with no load as you bring up the RPM you'll see the timing mark start to reverse at 3000-3500 RPM.

The Orange Box used to be a decent piece, then Wong Long Foo came along and proclaimed..."We make Cheapa, sam ting, sam corour"....so this is what you get.

Here's just one test we conducted as we developed the FBO Ignition System:

http://www.4secondsflat.com/a688dropcyltest.html

Bear in mind this is only one test of many we conducted over the 2 years of R&D on this ignition system.

You can also read more about the A688 FBO Ignition At:
http://www.4secondsflat.com/a688specs.html

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Oct 16, 05 4:47 pm

I should add that Neil has a few of these kits in stock if you want to drop by his place and look at the components.