Ok, got my new TTIs fitted to drivers side. Raising the engine is key. However once I position it is clear that one of the pipes that receives a slip pipe will not fit. I took a risk when I bought these from Dave as they said A body, but the advert at at TTI indicates they will fit A, B, E body.
No complaints, but need to decide what to do. The header fits perfectly in very respect and touches nothing except one tube kicks out at the collector end and hits frame/torsion bar. This will not be cured with a hammer. It needs structural change to one tube.
A skilled fabricator would cut and shut a piece of pipe in situ as there is space available.
Options -sell them if I can find a buyer
Cut and shut somehow http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXHAUST-FLEXI ... 3641.l6368
Your dammed if you do and your dammed if you dont there'll lovely piece of kit but other guys on here have had to reshape to make them fit. I would lay them up against your old existing ones and see how much of a difference there is between the two sets of pipes. I think you will then make the call what to do when you see how much work is involved to make them fit.
Good luck
Rich
Have you checked on the tti website for measurements to determine that the engine is located in the correct position?
That is key, you'd be surprised how much difference it makes if the engine is just a bit too high, too low, off to one side or tilted. I always use their measurements and a sprit level across the valve covers when fitting headers. You suddenly go from no chance to where did all that space come from.
I have fitted several sets of tti's to various cars and I've never yet had to dink any tubes.
Ok chaps, been staring at it with an engineer mate. We can make up a jig and then work out the new position for the pipe.
Blue, I have lifted the engine to get the header in. The offending pipe will nevr fit as it literally needs to go through the chassis where the k frame body mounts are; A bods don't have them.
Before I do anything to it I'm going to trial fit the other side. If that works ok I'll look at getting a local chopper/bike shop to weld a section in with a slip joint to allow some room to manoeuvre.
As b bods have more engine bay room I thought these headers would fit ok, but it was always a risk. They really are too nice to pass up so some perseverance is needed.
I'm amazed at just how well everything else clears inc starter, steering and even transmission lines. Just Ned to check for linkage on the trans now.
Passenger side dropped right in. Bit tight over the torsion bar but it all fits. Will be taking drivers side header for fitment surgery in due course.
Did the whole fit without attacking the steering linkage so the TTI instructions can be ignored on that one.
Lift engine one drivers side and it fits.
Remove oil filter and that cross bar thingy between block and bell house and it's in. Passenger side was just a few minutes work
I don't doubt you when you say it won't fit but I think you are misunderstanding what I'm getting at.
Yes you have to lift the engine to get the header in place, but it's when you drop it back on the mounts you have to measure it, just because it fits doesn't mean it's where it should be. I've had to jiggle mounts about, grind stuff, open out mount holes and all sorts to get the right offset and the engine level then suddenly you have an inch gap where you had nothing before.
Blue, I understand that, I really do.
These are A body headers I'm fitting to my b body. The only option is surgery. When I get my laptop back off my son I'll post the pics and you'll see what I mean any resize pics on my phone or I'd post straight up
Fair enough, just wanted to be sure we were all singing from the same hymn sheet
This is also handy information for anyone else fitting headers, I'm convinced half the time they really don't need bashing about as much as some people do.
Mind you there was that one time I was helping Pete put the right headers on his 'Cuda, and one pipe wanted to pass straight though the steering column, that was ridiculous....
Pic rap pic and upside down too. But the tube that is aimed at the bras thing. That brass thinks the k frame donut bush and that's the problem. Just downloaded a photo reducing app and will try again.
Final pic from above looking straight down from the cylinder head
See the pie heading off at 45 degrees
Straight into frame rail. It need cutting and a new section added
Yes blue! donut in the way. If that wasn't three the frame rail would still hit it.
That 45 degre angle needs to be cut off and then there is space to add the new section.
Ive made a jig up so it can translate to whoever welds it for me.
I can see what you're up against now, what you really need is that pipe coming up instead of out so the tube passes on the engine side of the torsion bar rather than between the bar and the chassis rail. From what I can see, in you particular case that tube wouldn't even need to be removable?
ideas?
