Hi guys I need some help.
I have a 72 Duster in my garage that I can get the indicators to work.
I've checked all wire and they are all in tack.
I've put new indicator relays on and they the hazards work but the indicators don't.
If you put the hazards on the hazard relay clicks and then if you indicate with the hazards on the indicator relay starts clicking but if you turn the hazards off the indicators relay turn off too. I think there is a fault in the hazard switch behind the horn button not allow power to the indicator switch when the hazards are off.
Has anyone had this issue or are there any other suggestions as to where the problem lies.
the pink wire from the brake light switch give power to the indicators and hazards and that is all fine. If I put a live to the red indicator wire on the switch the indicators work but my power probe circuit protector trips due tot he relay clicking. Power is not getting to the red indicator wire through the hazard switch in the off position.
Indicator issue
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Indicator issue
www.apdautomotive.co.uk
APD Automotive
Unit B3 Connaught Business Centre
22 Willow Lane
MITCHAM
CR4 4NA
0208 6400729
https://www.facebook.com/#!/apdautomotive.ltd
APD Automotive
Unit B3 Connaught Business Centre
22 Willow Lane
MITCHAM
CR4 4NA
0208 6400729
https://www.facebook.com/#!/apdautomotive.ltd
basic generic 2 box flasher
even if the car isn't wired like this now, this will work .
You can achieve this with 1 feed to the indciator relay off a swicthed 12 volt source...by the sound of things

indicators usually get powered from 12 volt swicthed
emergency flashers are on constant 12 volt
both relays powered by seperate feeds in a basic set up.
i.e. If you pull over due to lack of indciator function you still have emergency flasher function. Nice and safe....
The system works by swicthing the power at C on either relay, to ground via the flasher switch, and the bulbs it relates to down the wire.
then of course from gound back to battery -
Sounds like the fuse or the wire feed into + on the indicator flasher is at fault....
or maybe on a mopar you have some kind of pass-thru feed from the emergency flasher to the indicator flasher. In which case when emergency flasher is off it switched a12 volt feed into + on the indciator box. (that would be odd)
However this would mean your emergency flashers and indicators would work with igntion off...are they supposed to?
Maybe they are. either way if the switch is busted put a swicthed 12 volt into + on the indicator flasher unit and it should work.
However ypou would normally expect only the emergency flashers to work with the igntion off
if the relays are 2 pin they won't have R and the dash lamps are just part of the external indciator light bulb circuit.
In both cases 1 feed or 2 from the relay, this means that if the dash light or an indicator light goes out the resistance seen by the flasher relay decreases and it flashes much faster (2 bulbs lower resiatnce than 3, higher current flows and heats flasher up quicker)
think of the flasher cans as having a metal rod running from + to C
when it heats up it bends away from C, breaking the circuit and swithcing off the indicators, it then pings into R and lights the dash bulb (or in the case of No R a plastic pole that does nothing) becasue the Resiatnce of dash bulb at R is way higher less current flows, the metal rod cools and pings back to C again, where it lights the indicator lights, front and back, until the rod gets hot enough to ping back to R and light the dash lamp direction indicator again. repeat
get a wire from + on the battery and ping 12 volts off each connection on each flasher box and see what lights up.
then use a bulb and 2 wires to check continuity of each switch
put bulb round as a bypass on the 2 connection on the switch you want to check.
with switch off. the bulb lights.
the leccy can't go through a switch thats off so it bypasses through your bulb.
with switch on it should go totally off, a switch contact is a much nicer route to take than through a resistant bulb.
if it glows....! the switch has massive resistance i.e is dirty or corroded at least suspect in some way
If the switch swicthes to earth (i.e the thing it controls is earthe by its case (lights etc) put the bulb between the switch output and the chassis. Bulb should light with switch on
then instead of chassis connect between switch output and the wire that goes to the device thats not working
if the bulb glows and the device kinda works that wire is good and the device has a reasonable earth...
Dave
even if the car isn't wired like this now, this will work .
You can achieve this with 1 feed to the indciator relay off a swicthed 12 volt source...by the sound of things

indicators usually get powered from 12 volt swicthed
emergency flashers are on constant 12 volt
both relays powered by seperate feeds in a basic set up.
i.e. If you pull over due to lack of indciator function you still have emergency flasher function. Nice and safe....
The system works by swicthing the power at C on either relay, to ground via the flasher switch, and the bulbs it relates to down the wire.
then of course from gound back to battery -
Sounds like the fuse or the wire feed into + on the indicator flasher is at fault....
or maybe on a mopar you have some kind of pass-thru feed from the emergency flasher to the indicator flasher. In which case when emergency flasher is off it switched a12 volt feed into + on the indciator box. (that would be odd)
However this would mean your emergency flashers and indicators would work with igntion off...are they supposed to?
Maybe they are. either way if the switch is busted put a swicthed 12 volt into + on the indicator flasher unit and it should work.
However ypou would normally expect only the emergency flashers to work with the igntion off
if the relays are 2 pin they won't have R and the dash lamps are just part of the external indciator light bulb circuit.
In both cases 1 feed or 2 from the relay, this means that if the dash light or an indicator light goes out the resistance seen by the flasher relay decreases and it flashes much faster (2 bulbs lower resiatnce than 3, higher current flows and heats flasher up quicker)
think of the flasher cans as having a metal rod running from + to C
when it heats up it bends away from C, breaking the circuit and swithcing off the indicators, it then pings into R and lights the dash bulb (or in the case of No R a plastic pole that does nothing) becasue the Resiatnce of dash bulb at R is way higher less current flows, the metal rod cools and pings back to C again, where it lights the indicator lights, front and back, until the rod gets hot enough to ping back to R and light the dash lamp direction indicator again. repeat
get a wire from + on the battery and ping 12 volts off each connection on each flasher box and see what lights up.
then use a bulb and 2 wires to check continuity of each switch
put bulb round as a bypass on the 2 connection on the switch you want to check.
with switch off. the bulb lights.
the leccy can't go through a switch thats off so it bypasses through your bulb.
with switch on it should go totally off, a switch contact is a much nicer route to take than through a resistant bulb.
if it glows....! the switch has massive resistance i.e is dirty or corroded at least suspect in some way
If the switch swicthes to earth (i.e the thing it controls is earthe by its case (lights etc) put the bulb between the switch output and the chassis. Bulb should light with switch on
then instead of chassis connect between switch output and the wire that goes to the device thats not working
if the bulb glows and the device kinda works that wire is good and the device has a reasonable earth...
Dave
Last edited by Dave999 on Tue Jun 16, 15 4:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Thanks for the help.
I ended up using the wiring diagram from my charger manual and the wire colours were the same and that help a lot.
I have it sorted now. It was the ignition live to the indicator relay. I ran a new live and job done.
I ended up using the wiring diagram from my charger manual and the wire colours were the same and that help a lot.
I have it sorted now. It was the ignition live to the indicator relay. I ran a new live and job done.
www.apdautomotive.co.uk
APD Automotive
Unit B3 Connaught Business Centre
22 Willow Lane
MITCHAM
CR4 4NA
0208 6400729
https://www.facebook.com/#!/apdautomotive.ltd
APD Automotive
Unit B3 Connaught Business Centre
22 Willow Lane
MITCHAM
CR4 4NA
0208 6400729
https://www.facebook.com/#!/apdautomotive.ltd
-
- Posts: 7309
- Joined: Fri Nov 04, 05 8:40 pm
- Location: Cornwall