Sump pan hitting

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sat Sep 05, 15 6:58 pm

Deep sump is just hitting steering arm before bump stops come into play

Make bump stops bigger ??

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Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Sat Sep 05, 15 8:58 pm

Not sure if bigger bump stops would solve the problem. Might be better off modifying the sump

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Sep 05, 15 9:40 pm

Twat the sump or weld stops to the knuckles to limit travel..

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sat Sep 05, 15 9:57 pm

Both will ruin my paint

terryr · Post by **terryr** » Sat Sep 05, 15 11:32 pm

aftermarket never fits ,test first ,,that drag link looks too close to the plug ,not that it will ever fall out ,in my eyes it will always do it up on right hand turns ,right hand turns first tho,no left ,and it should give a nice shinney brass rubbing look too

once on the ground and settled ,it will be cool

hope my advise was good ,if it wasn't she will thrash me with a large encyclopedia

terryr · Post by **terryr** » Sat Sep 05, 15 11:45 pm

just looked again ,,something is out ,yo drag link should not get that close ,maybe a drive and see what hits ,its like your motor mounts are out somewhere to be that close,maybe the wrong side of the ears ,,very easy done on a big block ,have a look at your trans mount ,if its leaning forward,your engine maybe wrong side of the lugs ,ive seen it done twice now

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sun Sep 06, 15 9:11 am

Good idea terry but unfortunately there correct.

Correct side of ears on block

Correctly sided (the one with bolt is drivers side)

The rubbers I believe are not sided and are identical

latil · Post by **latil** » Sun Sep 06, 15 9:45 am

Is the idler arm correct? If it were slightly longer it would solve the issue.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sun Sep 06, 15 9:49 am

Believe so

All the K frame and drag link steering box all came with the car.

All seemed very original

Is there a way to check if the idler is correct ???

Modifie the drag link to go around the sump ?

latil · Post by **latil** » Sun Sep 06, 15 10:17 am

Should be a part number cast in somewhere on that,do a cross reference. Some aftermarket arms look very different to factory parts. Are arms the same on SB cars to BB cars?

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sun Sep 06, 15 10:34 am

You could be onto something here.

The idler arm is definitely shorter than the steering box

WC 15 5
HC 15 5

??????

Any lidle arm licker please pretty please

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MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sun Sep 06, 15 1:20 pm

TTI exhaust company mention their headers may not fit when a Moog idler is used, maybe that's the issue here?

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sun Sep 06, 15 2:32 pm

This is brilliant thank you for all the input

So looks like I have a standard correct idler arm

Did find this

I take it that's it's longer ????????

Description: Proforged fast ratio idler arms are direct replacements designed to quicken your stock steering ratio from 16:1 to 12:1. These arms when used in conjunction with the fast ratio pitman arms will improve your stock steering from 3.5 turns to 2.75 turns lock to lock. This quick ratio was previously found on rare AAR Cudas and T/A Challengers. These idler arms are made from forged heat treated steel for rugged durability and black e-coated to prevent rust.

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autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sun Sep 06, 15 2:37 pm

dodge fast ratio idler arms
Summit RacingSummit Racing Verified Purchase

great alternative to firm feel , quality on par, must use pitman and idler arm for correct geometery, as stated check your clearance to headers or exhaust as these are longer than stock , at least an extra 2 "
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latil · Post by **latil** » Sun Sep 06, 15 2:57 pm

Got to change pitman as well? Yes. Beware of your headers.