Mopar Muscle Association UK

My Charger has has a whack underneath at some point so I will be having a new piece of exhaust welded in. The trans oil pan looks like that has also taken a whack and has a leak, the guy that will be doing the exhaust says he can weld the oil pan too but I'm just wondering if I might as well just replace it? Summit racing do one but it has bad reviews. Either way I'm pretty sure I'll need a new gasket anyway? I've noticed a clonking noise from underneath the footwells when driving it which I'm guessing might be linked to.the oil leak. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Personally I would replace & fit a drain plug at the same time to make future oil changes easier, something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skyjacker-High- ... W1&vxp=mtr the clonking noise is unlikely to be related to an oil leak, more likely the exhaust hitting the floor or a broken transmission mount or both.

A904 pan..........http://www.manciniracing.com/mopa9anda9no.html

Maybe drop Dunc an email........he's the trans Man and may have a pan off a broken box.........Cannonball is his username!

I'd get it taken off

dressed back to flat

and put it back on again

doesn't look cracked or ripped

Dave

Thanks Geezers. Think I will put a new pan on.

Another question - it has a flat spot and someone said it's the accelerator circuit and it's an easy fix. Not having much luck finding one!

To remove the flat spot the carb needs adjusting and possibly the timing is out. I would also just dress out and dent in the trans pan and put new gasket and change the fluid and filter at the same time. The exhaust can be repaired locally too. No big deal.

if its a 770 it will have had a carter BBD made by EMAIL ltd fitted originally. the body and baseplate castings are notoriously soft

if it still has. it probably has worn throttle shaft bushings.

either way

you might be able to cure the flat spot

your carb will be a carter Low top BBD

it has a lever on the side of the air horn which angles across to the accelerator pump plunger that goes in through the top of the bowl cover

the lever has 3 holes in it or on some later ones the rod that connects to the lever has 3 holes to chose from at its other end

the rod will be in the middle hole

try it in the inner then the outer holes

the spring clips are not easy to get so don't loose it

the bowel vent on your carb is a circular disk round the accelerator pump rod

the accelerator pump rod (through the bowl cover) should have a spring clip on it. and that spring clip should be in the middle indent in the rod. its job is to lift the bowl vent disk as the accelerator pump returns to standard position.

if it isn't there you can have varying fuel level in the bowl after stamping on the accelerator


if all else fails

get rebuilt carter BBD
swap in your rods jets throttle disks spring for the rods


before doing any of this it would be worth getting the timing set to provide as much initial advance as you can get away with


Dave

Ooh that sounds a bit complicated about the flat spot. Will have to take it to a garage for that. If I decide to replace the carb is Carter an aussie make? If so I guess that will have to come from Pentastar?

One more question, the exhaust is blowing quite badly from near the manifold and there is a visible hole - could this contribute to the flat spot??

I have a new pan coming with a service kit (from Woolfe Racing in Bedford) and I will buy 6 litres of Dexron III trans fluid. The same guys that are replacing the pan for me are going to give me a price for fixing the exhaust. I did find this bloke on Facebook called Weld Done and he quoted me 40 quid to sort the exhaust but he seems to have vanished and his phone no longer takes calls.

Thanks for all the advice everyone, much appreciated. I hope to get the car fixed up soon so I can take it to the Mopars at the Pod next year.

CARTER is a US brand
they make the Ball and Ball Dual choke carb you have

Ball and Ball designed a Carb and when MR Carter sold his bicycle and Brass carburettor company in the 1920s he hooked Mr Ball and Mr Ball up with the new owners so they had a few designs to work from

Chrylser purchased Ball and Ball designed carburettors from Carter

Carter BBD Ball&Ball Dual

they made them for Chrysler and Jeep and sold them everywhere except places that had horrible import duty.


in which case they licenced a local company to make them

In Australia it was EMAIL a company that has a name that wasn't confusing in 1971 but is now.


They also made carter AFBs (Aluminium 4 barrel)
and
The Thermoquad A 4 barrel carb with a body made of thermo setting plastic.


Carter is now a Federal Mogul Brand and most of their carb designs are shared between Edelbrock in the US and Magneti Marelli in Italy (weber)

but that's by the by


any CARTER BBD for a Plymouth or dodge 318 1968-1972 (i.e the low top) should work

here is a new Chinese copy

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CARBURETO ... Sw~gRVidCn

use the pictures to help ID the version of BBD for your car

3 versions

Big (used on 383s, looks nothing like yours and nothing like the one in the pictures which is a low top)
hi top (has an accelerator lever through the side of the bowel
low top (has the accelerator lever on the side of the air inlet and the pump plunger goes through the top of the carb ( (bowl cover))

you want a Low top for a VH and a High top if its a VJ onwards


but I'd get the timing set properly first

new cap, new points, gap plugs

get exhaust welded

and try the 3 positions on the accelerator pump arm to see which one works best when you hit the gas.

See how you go before investing in new carb.

a new BBD copy may not be any better than the one you have

Carter BBDs need
1) the timing to be right, as much as you can get BTDC at idle without straying past 34* BTDC at 3000 rpm
2) the idle mixture set ( fastest idle with engine running smooth
3) the choke properly adjusted so it hangs just open a few thou when cold or wired open all the time.
the 2 throttle stop screws adjusted for the 2 cams linked to the choke. to achieve a fast idle on choke and a sensible 800 -900 rpm in drive when warm which will be a higher speed in neutral. if it stalls when you put it into drive the idle speed in neutral needs to be bigger

without the choke the car will be a pig to start

Dave

Blimey, thanks for all that info Dave, you really know your Chargers!!

I will hold fire on replacing the carb.

Thanks very much

weird

i thought I'd accidentally deleted this whole thread, sent you an apology

created a new thread explaining

and now when i come back its here...


anyway


yes get everything sorted out before spending any more cash on rebuilt carbs

dave

Blimey Dave....some great info there...very interesting thread and good luck with the repairs.

Anywhere that does custom exhausts will be able to repair your exhaust for not much more than a drink

Must have a poltergeist, it had vanished!