I've been refurbishing my axle on my Charger and when I removed the shafts found the outer seals in pieces. Can I replace them without having to remove the bearings.
Cheers - Mike
Outer Axle Seals
Moderator: Moderators
I don't think so....
you can however buy bearing collars separate.
a number of ways to get them off
I whacked mine with a chisel but that isn't the most sensible path
I then got a garage to put the lot back on
its not hard if you have a big bit of pipe....but I didn't
Dave
you can however buy bearing collars separate.
a number of ways to get them off
I whacked mine with a chisel but that isn't the most sensible path
I then got a garage to put the lot back on
its not hard if you have a big bit of pipe....but I didn't
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Dave,
Would this press be man enough to press on the retaining collars.
eBay item number 261816174354
http://tinyurl.com/pxmp7td
Mike
Would this press be man enough to press on the retaining collars.
eBay item number 261816174354
http://tinyurl.com/pxmp7td
Mike
The oil seal is in the axle tube and the seal you are taking about is the foam gasket and can be replaced with out taking the bearing off. I made mine out of foam packing material. See my thread in the workshop for how to do this job.
The seal runs on the half shaft.
The seal runs on the half shaft.
www.apdautomotive.co.uk
APD Automotive
Unit B3 Connaught Business Centre
22 Willow Lane
MITCHAM
CR4 4NA
0208 6400729
https://www.facebook.com/#!/apdautomotive.ltd
APD Automotive
Unit B3 Connaught Business Centre
22 Willow Lane
MITCHAM
CR4 4NA
0208 6400729
https://www.facebook.com/#!/apdautomotive.ltd
Coupe66 wrote:Dave,
Would this press be man enough to press on the retaining collars.
eBay item number 261816174354
http://tinyurl.com/pxmp7td
Mike
I should think so
getting the collar on isn't too hard.
I'd suggest its a similar process as with lambretta crank shafts (ive done a few of them)
hot cooking oil a hook some nice welders gloves heat it up
clap it on tap it down. just don't heat it with a torch or gas ring anything like that, you will damage its clamping properties
the bearing is more awkward because heating it up is going to Bananarama! grease out and perhaps damage it
so it needs to be pressed to a specific depth use feelers for clearance space onto a nice clean axle with no burs with the retaining plate and seal on first.
seal may be separate, press on or already attached to the bearing depending on type.
my seal came combined/assembled with the bearing (aussie Timken and dana style different kind of axle) yours will probably be different.
you will need a nice set of bearing pulling/separating tools to squish the bearing off in the first place without damage.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
PS stops grease and axle oil getting into drum.
rotation of shafts winds axle oil from centre out to the back of the bearing.
it flows back along the tubes to the middle to get thrown about again.
some shafts have a taper that inadvertently helps with this.
Those that are not depend more on slosh as you go round corners
its worth cleaning/polishing up the surface where the seal runs around the cone section behind the flange on the axle. No two seals sit in exactly the same place would be a shame for the rusty edge of the current clean patch to eat the lip of the new seal
Dave
rotation of shafts winds axle oil from centre out to the back of the bearing.
it flows back along the tubes to the middle to get thrown about again.
some shafts have a taper that inadvertently helps with this.
Those that are not depend more on slosh as you go round corners
its worth cleaning/polishing up the surface where the seal runs around the cone section behind the flange on the axle. No two seals sit in exactly the same place would be a shame for the rusty edge of the current clean patch to eat the lip of the new seal
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
depends
some trucks use big ball bearings not cones. trucks don't tend to take corners at high speed due to high centre of gravity
cones are robust
ball bearings will be I'm pretty sure
the idea of cones was weight and lateral forces are handled well at the expense of slightly higher rolling resistance
green bearings just named after the green bearing co who provided the first bearing and seal kit its just a ball bearing with a deep track.
much the same as the word Torrington bearing gets thrown about when people mean a flat washer style needle roller bearing most usually found under the turntable in the middle of a table in Chinese restaurant
Now in theory cone roller and cup style bearings are designed for axles and diffs
and ball bearings are for linear motion with the load directly perpendicular to the shaft through the bearing.
however I know Australia is full of Toyota Dyna trucks with ball bearings for their axles
and 1000s of Americans drive their street and strip cars on the road with them
so I'd suggest if you plan to do The Ring or even brands hatch that standard is best
but if you just plan to drive down the shops and to the strip
green will be fine.
small but extreme example of the wrong bearings for the job
skateboards all use tiny 608 series "green bearings"
its amazing how quickly you can wear them out
and its very quick if you do not maintain their angle in the wheel with a well machined spacer between the inner and outer bearing
doesn't help that the bearing ID is 8 mm and the axle is imperial sized rod which is too small. but nobody would use cone and cup
the rolling resistance greatly outweighs the benefit in this situation
they fair much better in inline skates, forces tend to be concentrated perpendicular to the axle in them regardless of the angle the skate hits the path... the action of skating isn't trying to force the skate wheels into under steer or over steer type situations.
which is all you are ever trying to do on a skateboard when you "pump " it on the flat. Push the back of the board left and right running the wheel bearings into the sides of their tracks squashing out the grease (not a problem in an oil lubricated axle)
so not a great example
but I'd just use cone and cup rollers you know they fit and set up is as it is written in the manual
although I doubt there is much wrong in hobby use of a car with ball bearings
certainly makes sealing the axle easier you can get a bearing with pre installed neoprene seal
Dave
some trucks use big ball bearings not cones. trucks don't tend to take corners at high speed due to high centre of gravity
cones are robust
ball bearings will be I'm pretty sure
the idea of cones was weight and lateral forces are handled well at the expense of slightly higher rolling resistance
green bearings just named after the green bearing co who provided the first bearing and seal kit its just a ball bearing with a deep track.
much the same as the word Torrington bearing gets thrown about when people mean a flat washer style needle roller bearing most usually found under the turntable in the middle of a table in Chinese restaurant
Now in theory cone roller and cup style bearings are designed for axles and diffs
and ball bearings are for linear motion with the load directly perpendicular to the shaft through the bearing.
however I know Australia is full of Toyota Dyna trucks with ball bearings for their axles
and 1000s of Americans drive their street and strip cars on the road with them
so I'd suggest if you plan to do The Ring or even brands hatch that standard is best
but if you just plan to drive down the shops and to the strip
green will be fine.
small but extreme example of the wrong bearings for the job
skateboards all use tiny 608 series "green bearings"
its amazing how quickly you can wear them out
and its very quick if you do not maintain their angle in the wheel with a well machined spacer between the inner and outer bearing
doesn't help that the bearing ID is 8 mm and the axle is imperial sized rod which is too small. but nobody would use cone and cup
the rolling resistance greatly outweighs the benefit in this situation
they fair much better in inline skates, forces tend to be concentrated perpendicular to the axle in them regardless of the angle the skate hits the path... the action of skating isn't trying to force the skate wheels into under steer or over steer type situations.
which is all you are ever trying to do on a skateboard when you "pump " it on the flat. Push the back of the board left and right running the wheel bearings into the sides of their tracks squashing out the grease (not a problem in an oil lubricated axle)
so not a great example
but I'd just use cone and cup rollers you know they fit and set up is as it is written in the manual
although I doubt there is much wrong in hobby use of a car with ball bearings
certainly makes sealing the axle easier you can get a bearing with pre installed neoprene seal
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Just looked back on RockAuto website and they do have a cheaper bearing for about £13ish a throw but not sure if it's the ones I need.
USA STANDARD GEAR USA10001 R1559TV Axle Bearing & Seal Kit, Torrington Brand, 2.530" OD, 1.620" ID
Fits Rear; RWD; Chrysler 8.25"
Or Rear; RWD; Chrysler 9.25"
Or Rear; RWD; Chrysler 7.25"
My 68 Charger has 383 with original axle.
Mike
USA STANDARD GEAR USA10001 R1559TV Axle Bearing & Seal Kit, Torrington Brand, 2.530" OD, 1.620" ID
Fits Rear; RWD; Chrysler 8.25"
Or Rear; RWD; Chrysler 9.25"
Or Rear; RWD; Chrysler 7.25"
My 68 Charger has 383 with original axle.
Mike
if they include the sizes or bearing numbers bearing kit number etc you can probably get them from a local supplier
standard 383 engine car would have an 8 3/4 I think
i.e not the bearing you listed
I tend to just look bearings up on www.simplybearings.co.uk to get a handle on availability and expected cost
then find a cheaper alternative
however given your standard car and your need for the 3 part kit seal cone and cup it may well be easier just to call
Hauser racing
US automotive
or WASP
and ask what they have on the shelf.
Saves a load of hassle
Torrington SKF INA Timken and FAG are all good
Dave
standard 383 engine car would have an 8 3/4 I think
i.e not the bearing you listed
I tend to just look bearings up on www.simplybearings.co.uk to get a handle on availability and expected cost
then find a cheaper alternative
however given your standard car and your need for the 3 part kit seal cone and cup it may well be easier just to call
Hauser racing
US automotive
or WASP
and ask what they have on the shelf.
Saves a load of hassle
Torrington SKF INA Timken and FAG are all good
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
you need to ID your diff so you can get the right beraings
8 3/4 is a banjo diff the full centre including the bearings it spins in comes out the front and the rear is a smooth none removable tin plate cover welded/pressed onto the housing
a Salisbury has a removable tinplate cover with bolts round on the back of the diff and the bearings sit in the housing
most dana spicer and diffs of borg warner origin are Salisbury diffs
anything that has a cone based sure grip also has a whiff of BorgWarner about it as well but don't let that put you off that's just the centre
the 8 3/4 is a banjo diff
see below for details on the cars that likely had the diff which will help with rockauto ordering
8 3/4 is a banjo diff the full centre including the bearings it spins in comes out the front and the rear is a smooth none removable tin plate cover welded/pressed onto the housing
a Salisbury has a removable tinplate cover with bolts round on the back of the diff and the bearings sit in the housing
most dana spicer and diffs of borg warner origin are Salisbury diffs
anything that has a cone based sure grip also has a whiff of BorgWarner about it as well but don't let that put you off that's just the centre
the 8 3/4 is a banjo diff
see below for details on the cars that likely had the diff which will help with rockauto ordering
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying