Mopar Muscle Association UK

Hi all,
So the next undertaking for me is to fit a set (3 housed together) of generic water, oil and amps gauges in a removable binnacle hanging under the dash console. I've seen loads of folk with them ....
My current ones appear to work - temp gauge never goes above "C" for cold but doesn't smoke either, amps are dead on center and oil light hasn't gone on - but just in case they aren't functioning i'd like to be sure !
My question being: are there enough ports in my 340 to run both simultaneously or do I have to disconnect the "originals" and tap into their ports for the "new".
Any help or hints on this would be very welcomed - there is a vid' on Youtube but the geezer goes at his firewall with a forstner bit cutting a 2" hole for a single cable - after seeing this I decided not to follow his advice ! I'm guessing there must be several routes through already there - 74 Dodge Challenger,
Thanks in advance
garp

I would go for a voltmeter not ammeter

a voltmeter only has to tap into an ignition switched circuit to get a reading

an ammeter has to have ALL the cars electricery circuits going through it

if your existing ammeter stays dead centre it may have already been bypassed

have a read of this about ammeters …

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... uges.shtml

for water temperature and oil pressure use mechanical gauges, more accurate

I’ve not done it but I believe you can get water and oil bosses that have dual outlet so you can run the original sender / original gauges and the mechanical gauges as well

have a look at what I did, I ran the capillaries thro a hole on the passenger side, on the inside the hole is just above the heater box …

http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... &start=120

That's interesting - anyone know any more about the dual bosses??

I think this is where I saw it …

http://www.realsteel.co.uk/section8.pdf

last page

Thanks Si

Thanks - will look into the dual sender option.

I run one of those dual senders, to keep the idiot light functioning. Can't be watching the gauge all the time. Poked the capillary tube through the firewall grommet for the accelerator cable, as I recall.

Adam wrote:I run one of those dual senders, to keep the idiot light functioning. Can't be watching the gauge all the time. Poked the capillary tube through the firewall grommet for the accelerator cable, as I recall.

cool - sounds easy enough. Where did you get the sender and do you have details of it ?
Thanks
garp

It's the same as that one from Real Steel, though I think I got mine in the States.

Your existing electrical sender screws into the end, and there's a take off for the capillary on the side.

That will sort out the Oil pressure gauge, you may have a plugged port on your intake manifold that goes into water that you could use for the temp gauge without disturbing the stock sender. It would be at the front by the thermostat housing. If you don't you'd have to drill & tap to suit.

Thanks chaps. Jobs for next weekend sorted then.
Will order one from real steel as now it makes more sense since you explained it.
Will check for a water port when at the car tomorrow- cheers

Can I use these two "extra" ports instead of running off a "T" fitting ....

Yep, take your pick - or more likely which you can get out. As long as it is in the water jacket you will be fine.

The top photo is nothing to do with the oil pressure that is into a intake runner and would only give you a vacuum .