Intake gasket
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- shaungriff
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Intake gasket
I'm planning to replace the intake manifold gasket on my 1973 360 this weekend. I've purchased a fel pro gaskets & it comes with 4 little plastic retainers. Am I right in thinking I push the retainers thru the new gasket then into the head so the washer type head is towards the inlet ? I'm just a bit worried it will stop the gasket sealing. Any advice appreciated. Thanks shaun
1973 Chrysler CJ 360ci
- shaungriff
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I normally evo stick the gaskets to the head and leave them to set. remove the dowels in the end rails if there are any, use a thick bead of silicone back and front instead of the end seals and otherwise install the intake dry. That's the way the racers do it for a permanent leak free solution.
“It’s good enough for Nancy”
- Demon James
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I have used the plastic retainers twice now on a 340 SB with no other sealant. First time was when fitting a new inlet manifold.
Second time was five years later on a refresh of the same engine, which still seals fine 3000 miles later
Definitely with Blue on the end sealant too. Dowels removed and a thick bead of gloop at each end instead of the cork gaskets
Second time was five years later on a refresh of the same engine, which still seals fine 3000 miles later

Definitely with Blue on the end sealant too. Dowels removed and a thick bead of gloop at each end instead of the cork gaskets

- shaungriff
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So donthe retainers push into the gasket from the manifold side then hold the gasket to the head via the bolt holes ? So no sealant on gasket & no cork just rtv Thanks shaunDemon James wrote:I have used the plastic retainers twice now on a 340 SB with no other sealant. First time was when fitting a new inlet manifold.
Second time was five years later on a refresh of the same engine, which still seals fine 3000 miles later
Definitely with Blue on the end sealant too. Dowels removed and a thick bead of gloop at each end instead of the cork gaskets
1973 Chrysler CJ 360ci
- Demon James
- Posts: 1062
- Joined: Mon Aug 01, 11 10:59 am
- Location: Bedfordshire
Yep, that's how I did it anyway.
Sat the gaskets in position then pushed the retainers through the gasket into the cylinder head (second hole in from each end I seem to remember)
Then with the dowels remove from the block, because if they are left in they sit too high and may crack the ally inlet manifold. Followed by a good dose of RTV where the cork gasket would normally sit.
The gaskets I used had a soft, slightly raised compound around the water circuit holes so I didn't add anything else. I don't think it would hurt either way if a very small amount of rtv was added around these holes if you like.

Sat the gaskets in position then pushed the retainers through the gasket into the cylinder head (second hole in from each end I seem to remember)
Then with the dowels remove from the block, because if they are left in they sit too high and may crack the ally inlet manifold. Followed by a good dose of RTV where the cork gasket would normally sit.
The gaskets I used had a soft, slightly raised compound around the water circuit holes so I didn't add anything else. I don't think it would hurt either way if a very small amount of rtv was added around these holes if you like.


- shaungriff
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So donthe retainers push into the gasket from the manifold side then hold the gasket to the head via the bolt holes ? So no sealant on gasket & no cork just rtv Thanks shaunDemon James wrote:I have used the plastic retainers twice now on a 340 SB with no other sealant. First time was when fitting a new inlet manifold.
Second time was five years later on a refresh of the same engine, which still seals fine 3000 miles later
Definitely with Blue on the end sealant too. Dowels removed and a thick bead of gloop at each end instead of the cork gaskets
1973 Chrysler CJ 360ci
- shaungriff
- Posts: 151
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 16 11:32 am
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