column to floor shift questions?
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column to floor shift questions?
Hi guys, hopefully some of you can give some insight into converting a column to a floor shift. Still dont know if i will actually do it, but i am toying with the idea of changing my car from column to floor. Just wondering how feasable it actually is. I have my eye on a nice looking Hurst promatic 2, and was wondering how much work there is with converting it. I Imagine there would need to be some cutting of the trans hump. But is there much work in disabling the column linkages etc. Just wondering how much people have spent on this modification too. The shifter i have seen is in the 200-300 range, but on top of that, what did people spend on odds and ends or labor if you had someone do it?
cheers guys
cheers guys
Can't help with the cost of converting from column to floor change as I haven't done it.
However, as far as the work involved goes, you'll need to cut a hole in the transmission tunnel. Find the linkages to connect the new shifter to the gear selector mechanism on the gearbox and connect them up so they select all the gears at the right time etc.
I think ( not really sure though ) that the linkages on the side of the gearbox are the same regardless of whether it's floor shift or column shift, so you just need to connect them up to the new shifter.
I'm sure I read somewhere that you can't remove the column shift mechanism from the steering column, if that's true, you'll need a floor shift steering column, which could be the difficult / expensive part depending on how easy it is to find a column
However, as far as the work involved goes, you'll need to cut a hole in the transmission tunnel. Find the linkages to connect the new shifter to the gear selector mechanism on the gearbox and connect them up so they select all the gears at the right time etc.
I think ( not really sure though ) that the linkages on the side of the gearbox are the same regardless of whether it's floor shift or column shift, so you just need to connect them up to the new shifter.
I'm sure I read somewhere that you can't remove the column shift mechanism from the steering column, if that's true, you'll need a floor shift steering column, which could be the difficult / expensive part depending on how easy it is to find a column
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It's easy enough, I've done it a few times and will be converting the Barracuda in due course.
Disabling the column change is as simple as removing the lever off the column and taking off the linkage that connects to the transmission, easy. If the key is on the column you probably need to disable the steering lock. In an ideal world you'd fit a floor change column for a cleaner look but they are very hard to find now and expensive. Some parts are now being repro'ed to get rid of the gear indicator and lever mount, but these are just cosmetics rather than essentials.
Mounting the shifter to the floor is just a case of drilling the mounting holes and a hole for the cable. The routing of the cable is important, use heatproof sleeve and keep it away from the exhaust of it will melt.
Shifters, most of the B&M range these days is cheap crap that can be awkward to use and will jam when you least need it. You get what you pay for here and the cheap end of the market will be disappointing. Turbo Action, Winters & the weirdness that is Kilduff are all quality items, there will be other more race oriented shifters out there too that I'm not familiar with, choose carefully.
Don't know what this would all cost to have done but it's well within the scope of what an amateur could do.
Disabling the column change is as simple as removing the lever off the column and taking off the linkage that connects to the transmission, easy. If the key is on the column you probably need to disable the steering lock. In an ideal world you'd fit a floor change column for a cleaner look but they are very hard to find now and expensive. Some parts are now being repro'ed to get rid of the gear indicator and lever mount, but these are just cosmetics rather than essentials.
Mounting the shifter to the floor is just a case of drilling the mounting holes and a hole for the cable. The routing of the cable is important, use heatproof sleeve and keep it away from the exhaust of it will melt.
Shifters, most of the B&M range these days is cheap crap that can be awkward to use and will jam when you least need it. You get what you pay for here and the cheap end of the market will be disappointing. Turbo Action, Winters & the weirdness that is Kilduff are all quality items, there will be other more race oriented shifters out there too that I'm not familiar with, choose carefully.
Don't know what this would all cost to have done but it's well within the scope of what an amateur could do.
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cheers guys for the advice. With the old column shift, is it just easier (and cheaper) to just disconnect and remove the old linkages and just leave the old coumn as is. Is it also easier to get the car on a lift or can it be done up on jackstands? Also with the steering lock is that just removing the whole saw blade looking disc in the upper column?
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Cheers Miles, thought it was that. Pretty much got that far before i realized it wasnt an ignition switch problem i had. I guess its safe for the column to not have that plate then.MilesnMiles wrote:Chris, I posted a while back on replacing ignition switch and also removed the teeming lock. To do that, there is a hidden pin which has to be punched out to removed the saw thingy/steering lock. It has a mild steel plate wrapped over it. Easy to do.
I have a Hurst Promatic 2 and am seriously unimpressed with it. It's been a right pain to get set up correctly as the full movement range of the shifter doesn't seem to be quite the same as the full range of the trans shift lever. It feels particularly vague when put into park but I've had enough of messing with it.
A Cheetah Turbo Action sounds like a better bet to me.

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Hmm, sounds the same as fitting PA Lokar shift cable which Blue advised me against
Chris, yes just remove the steering lock and you're fine. Makes it easier working on the car sometimes if you want to shift without having to keep switching ignition on, risk burning out coil etc.
Think Pete said he onc had a steering lock come on whilst driving
Do you have a shift kit in the trans yet?

Chris, yes just remove the steering lock and you're fine. Makes it easier working on the car sometimes if you want to shift without having to keep switching ignition on, risk burning out coil etc.
Think Pete said he onc had a steering lock come on whilst driving

Do you have a shift kit in the trans yet?
cheers guys. Might look at other options then for a shifter. Shame as i really like the look of the pro matic, looks a bit more "period" correct than the turbo action, which looks more like it belongs in a fighter jet.
Good to know miles, will probably get that plate out soon. Any special tools needed to get the pin out? Or will it come out with a few good taps of a hammer. I Dont have a shift kit installed as far as i am aware. All stock unless one of the previous owners did something but i havent noticed anything.
Good to know miles, will probably get that plate out soon. Any special tools needed to get the pin out? Or will it come out with a few good taps of a hammer. I Dont have a shift kit installed as far as i am aware. All stock unless one of the previous owners did something but i havent noticed anything.
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What I was thinking Chris, was why spend money on ashifter for a stock trans. Better money spent on a Trans Go TF2 shift kit. Gives really firm shifts that will chirp tyres and you can manually shift from the column.
No special tools needed but you need to drift out the pin that holds the serrated locking ring onto the steering column. Be careful and don't hammer the shot out of it all. A good sized drift is all you need.
No special tools needed but you need to drift out the pin that holds the serrated locking ring onto the steering column. Be careful and don't hammer the shot out of it all. A good sized drift is all you need.
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Chris, if you'll forgive me. Forget what shifts, but think How it shifts. The TF2 kit wil give you really firm shifts, no overlap and save the trans from wear. I've had that kit in both my long term Mopars, wouldn't go back to stock ever.
Fit the kit, drive down the road, manual shift 1-2 at 5,800 and hear the tyres chirp as it shifts with no slack, no overlap.
Just sayin
Fit the kit, drive down the road, manual shift 1-2 at 5,800 and hear the tyres chirp as it shifts with no slack, no overlap.
Just sayin

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I had looked at that kit myself and now your selling the idea to me MilesMilesnMiles wrote:Chris, if you'll forgive me. Forget what shifts, but think How it shifts. The TF2 kit wil give you really firm shifts, no overlap and save the trans from wear. I've had that kit in both my long term Mopars, wouldn't go back to stock ever.
Fit the kit, drive down the road, manual shift 1-2 at 5,800 and hear the tyres chirp as it shifts with no slack, no overlap.
Just sayin
