Alternator regular Dave 999

[autofetish]

Alternator

The alternator I have is a good quality unregulated alternator ( i think )

I would like to run a mechanical for EMP attacks and good old fashioned reliability.

I'm now being told that the regulator I have brought is for a dyno and will not work ....

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/alm-201105

Q. Can i use this with my current alternator? If not based on mechanical over-engineered what is the best way to do it.

[Dave999]

Lucas alternator from a cortina 73-82 and a delco regulator for a harley Motor cycle?

you is a crazy man....

yes that regulatr is for a generator or dynamo

the regulator for the lucas A115 35 amp and 45 amp is 8 quid

https://www.jcrsupplies.co.uk/products/ ... vert_.html

Now without being there and seeing one i can't tell if this is an internal or external part...

if you are currently successfully running that alternator, you will see 14.3 volts DC at the battery when the car is running at 1500 rpm or more.
switch meter to AC and check if you see just low AC or no volts AC then its rectifying ok. Job done

we can then assume it has an internal regulator and it may well be electronic or mechanical, can't tell without pulling it apart,
and chances are it is the part on the link above

if you put the Dynamo regulator in it won't do anything much to a pre regulated supply....

if you want Mopar style and mechanical you will need the heavy birdcage alternator and the mopar mechanical regulator.
or an Aussie small bosch or Email alternator and regulator (smaller but 45 or 55 amp)

but if you want it mega reliable you get a modern Bosch or denso of about 50 amps.... don't go daft as the greater the amp rating the harder it is to spin when FULLY on and more than 50 amps will fry stuff if you battery goes a bit flat....unless of course you renewed every wire with heavier gauge.

modern cars run 90 amp alternators for loads of fans, electric windows heated seats kettles toasters 3 bar electric fires etc and big stereos

no need if you don't have all of that

if it maintains the right power to ignition or ECU with everything switched on and your battery never goes flat or boils over you have balanced it just right

so unless you need to change for some reason..........i'd leave it as it is

emp!! well it can trigger emf in any wire and zap transistors so i'd suggest fine hair like wires in the relays of a mechanical regulator could be fried
and the diodes in the alternator could be as well..

you need to adopt the russian approach. Valves in place of semi conductors and not drop the bit of kit on the floor...more or less ensures that if the US launch and strike a hit on russian soil the russian launch systems will still be intact, provided no direct hit, to make it a draw 0 - 0

other way round and trumps football will be zapped 0 - 1

but my stereo will still work......NICE.... no Commy Nuke is gonna take out 2 matched pairs of KT88

Dave

[Dave999]

unless of course you are building a device for EMP attacks

in which case i suggest a horse and cart to carry it around with a minimum of ferrous used in both bridle and shoes

and leave your watch at home


nothin wrong with 70s 80s lucas kit but easier to keep it all lucas
modern stuff made by whoever is cheapest so make sure you get it from a decent place and it comes in a lucas box

Dave

[autofetish]

Thank you uncle dave