Hot Fuel?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun May 15, 05 6:55 pm

Have no idea what area this should be posted in so will try here! I have a black 69 charger 440 R/T vaguely stock, 284/484 cam, holley 750 with edelbrock performer intake. New ignition coil.Keep up that may be important, have a new fuel tank, new fuel filters one before and one after the fuel pump (don't know why but it was like that when I got it!).
Thursday and today whilst driving it has cut out completeley and died. Engine stops dead, there is no stuttering or spluttering, just a complete shut down the same as if you turn the ignition off.
All levels are fine, oil is 50psi or thereabouts at idle and upto 75 under acceleration.
Any suggestions? Have been told that it could be the engine block boiling the fuel in the pipe and causing a vapour lock? Fuel pipe is standard and doesnt feel hot to the touch, it is warm but then most things get warm under the hood. Fuel mixture may be slightly rich and I do get pinking, ignition is pretty retarded (like the owner!).

Jon · Post by **Jon** » Sun May 15, 05 7:17 pm

that sounds more like ignition to me, vapour lock tends to splutter to a halt, at least it did when I had it
and the fuel lines would feel hot if the fuel was boiling

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun May 15, 05 7:20 pm

as I was wording it, that suggested it to me as well. Wonder if I should see about moving the coil from the intake manifold to elsewhere? Or maybe rewiring it with thicker wire.
Thanks for the speedy response BTW

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun May 15, 05 7:27 pm

If it was fuel boiling it would happen when trying to start the car hot. Sounds electrical to me.

Easy to tell if it was fuel. When it stops like that look in the carb to see if it has fuel in.

There is a small chance on the fuel front. If you are sure both filters are OK there is (or should be) another filter in the tank on the end of the sender. Sometimes they can get blocked. No-one ever thinks to replace those.

To tell if it is electrical check for spark at the plugs.

If no spark there check at the coil. Sometimes the coil to dizzy lead can break and kill spark to all plugs.

If no spark at the coil you have a wire off somewhere. If you have points in the distributor....get a life.

BTW if you are wondering where you should have posted this you should have gone into "Engine, Carburation & Electrics". The clue in in the title see.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun May 15, 05 7:59 pm

Cheers for that Dave the more I think (the more it hurts) the more I think it must be electrical, Especially as after a couple of minutes it is fine.
Guess that means I need to actually fit the new leads rather than keeping then neatly in the boot huh?

Right shall swop them over tomorrow and see what happens.
Cheers Guys

Alex · Post by **Alex** » Sun May 15, 05 8:05 pm

If you have a tach go for a run until it cuts and watch the tach, if it drops as the engine cuts it is electrical, it the tach stays up as you coast it is fuel.

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Mon May 16, 05 12:51 pm

The car has electronic ignition .

Bryan · Post by **Bryan** » Mon May 16, 05 1:24 pm

bulkhead connector?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon May 16, 05 2:16 pm

So general concensus is electrical, thought the fuel and vapour lock was a bit far fetched. Will replace all the ignition leads (about time I fitted them!) and then chase all the wires back from the ignition coil, repairing and/or replacing. If nothing else it will look tidier

Cheers for the input guys - appreciated.