Dip stick - Never had one on the B1 or the Hemi, haven't even got one on the BMW.Brutus wrote: get a dip stick/sight glass on that motor on rebuild.
Excluding the BM, I change my oil more than some people change there pants.
Race motors, even more of a reason to do it, whats the cost of a couple of gallons oil, compared to a new motor.
Unless your burning loads of oil or loosing it, then usage will be minimal
Oil guides were always on the loose side on the B1, never had an issue though
The oil must of been running like a tap into the chambers to do the sort of hydraulic damage Bob is talking about, which seems highly unlikely.
Had one head spring a leak through a bad or porous part of the casting, this really did hydraulic the motor. Admittedly. I stopped as soon as heard motor labouring to turn over.
Hole was less than the size of a pin diameter, didn't notice till I water pressured / tested.
No damage to bores or pistons, just opened up hole in head to get to good metal, welded & re profiled chamber to same as pre welded.
Bob, I think you need to investigate further, as something doesn't sound right to me ? Unless like I said, oil was running past the stems faster than a running tap.
How much oil have you got going to the heads ? I only had bare minimum, to ensure pushrods were getting sufficient oil. I always pulled v/covers after each run, checked lash & gave pushrods a squirt of oil from a can (Belt & Braces
)John,
Apologies for crashing your thread.
Canton & Aqua sump are both good, solenoid operated is the best way to go in my opinion, once less thing to worry about turning on at the track. You can always fit an inline pressure warning gauge if your uncomfortable about trusting solenoid to work, or wire solenoid on the N/O circuit to a warning device.
) & lost around 1/2 gallon of oil down track 
