Is it possible to have a dual thread stud?
I went to bolt the starter onto the threaded stud and it apperas that the thread that the nut goes on to is metric. Is this likely given that the thread on the gearbox end of the stud is A/F?
Of course, the only nut i've lost during reassembley is the one that tightens the starter onto the stud
Dave, ive sorted it now. The studs were A/F at one end and metric the other!! Fits fine though.
Have you got a pic of how your engine is chained down on the drivers side, Dave?
I wont even go into why i have less than total faith in the engine mount nut on that side of the car!
Normally the stud would be UNC to fit the gearbox and UNF for the nut that holds the starter in. Carb studs are like this too, you can just use bolts in either case but the idea of studs is to reduce wear on the threads of the Aluminium component, I guess it makes no odds unless you are taking it to bits frequently.
Yeah I have a photo or two of that chain somewhere...
I bolted it to the water pump housing where the power steering pump usually mounts. Then ran the chain under the sway bar bracket and up to the engine mount bolt. Even when tight the chain does not transmit vibration to the chassis. But it is not the best looking way to strap the engine mount.
it's been said by blue already, but i'll second it anyways, the end that goes into the casing is unc and the end the nut goes on is unf ! there, said it !!
since i'm full of useful advice today, i'll also mention that its always worth using at least one stud, and have the stud in the top hole, that way you can 'hang' the starter in place while you try and get the nut on the end, i often go for two studs to be honest, makes life easier than trying to bolt locate a bolt hole while practicing for the contortionists convention ! !
everything, unless wrongly added later, is unf (fine thread) or unc (coarse thread), no mucking about here ! just get a good set of imperial wrenches (if you havent already) and away ya go, as you lose them you'll start to figure that 14mm replaces the 9/16 etc !!! just try not to use metric tat on solid nuts, you'll end up cursing ! godd to try and get yerself a nice 6 point socket set too, comes in handy with the amount of rusty bolts found on these things !
Rebel wrote:erm, might be a stupid question but, why chain the engine down ?
Under full throttle the engine tries to twist clockwise (as seen from the drivers seat) and a powerful engine will rip a stock type engine mount in half. This is why you see photos of cars with just the drivers side wheel lifting off the road on launch.
I was using a mount that was rubber but with thick steel pins that locked solid as the engine moved over. It lasted a couple of years but the engine still snapped it eventially.
I would try a solid mount but have anways been worried about causing vibration up through the manual steering to the steering wheel. I can live without vibration white finger thank you.
But Allkiller is saying he does not get that problem so i might try it.
) will cause the engine to flex and pull out of line!
