Matt's Charger , Fuel Injection conversion

[Dave999]

try not to run the car without the sensor plumbed in electrically

if its not being heated it gets full of crap

Dave

[VGVIP]

Hi Matt.

Top job!
I quite like the efi idea.

Wonder if you have any thoughts on the Powerjection III with a returnless fuel system.
http://www.professional-products.com/EFI_3.php

I am not so keen on the idea that the EMS of this design can be subjected to repeated heating then cooling being mounted in the throttle body though.

Look forward to reading how it all goes with the ezi kit.

Thanks for the write up.

[vipergts]

That is good work indeed and is the way to go. Would be interested to see what power gain you get though the real benefit is cleaner running and spot on fueling right across the rev range

I'm currently restoring my 65 Etype and fitting injection to it using the Emerald system.

Had a swirl pot made which can fit into the existing pump hole.

RPM etc is measured of a trigger wheel on the pully.

I'm looking forward to not stinking of soot

[Roger]

Excellent stuff Matt. look forward to seeing it.

[Anonymous]

Nice work going on there Matt!

Smallblocks work well with EFI.
Late model (as in 80's) 318's are well good on Fuel.

Bacyardboyo.

ps, did you find da 360 yet?

[Anonymous]

The computer comes preset with a standard map, and self-learns as you drive by constantly reading a number of sensors.

I don't think this system will work out whats going on as i have a problem, with my right foot
Great read and good work. I was thinking of doing this with a edelbrock multi injector intake and larger single butterfly throttle body.

N/A

[Matt]

OK - I've finally found some time to do a bit more.

VGVIP - the returnless powerjection III looks interesting. Definitely easier to plumb & wire. Initially, the two main differences that I can see with the EZ-efi:

a) returnless fuel system . EZ-efi return system involves more plumbing , and may heat the fuel during use.

b) Electronics on the Powerjection are all built into the throttle body. It depends how well it's designed and built really. That's a lot of electronics to mount on a hot vibrating engine, although keeping it all in one place simplifies wiring and may give less potential problems with electrical interference. EZ-efi uses standard GM sensors , which may be easier to troubleshoot or swap out if there is a failure.

[Matt]

Finished assembling the Pump/pickup/sump

A bit of thread sealer on the fittings, and then fit the pump, filter screen , and return tube . Good to go . It turns out that all the mounting screws *were* included in the kit - I'd just mislaid them .

[Matt]

Boot floor marked for cutting . As previously mentioned, you could avoid this by recessing the pickup unit into the top of the tank.
You can see I'm not being too tidy with the boot floor here, as it's going to be replaced eventually anyway.

I was going to bring the send/return hoses out over the front of the tank, but discovered too late that the mount for the RH tank retaining strap is right in the way.

Decided instead to bring the hoses sideways and over the top of the chassis rail, before heading under the car through the hole you can see behind the rear wheel. Fortunately this route will actually make the hardline route underneath the car much easier.

The plumbing inside the boot will eventually be boxed in.

[Matt]

Running the hard lines, front to rear.

Bought two coils of 3/8" steel tube from Summit. Thought about using aluminium but didn't fancy it on a road car.

The -6 fittings attach to the end with a compression joint. Best to grease the threads & olive first.

[Matt]

Bending long pieces of tube is not my favourite job . It's so difficult to get a sequence of bends in at exactly the right angles.

I hand-bent a couple of pieces of copper tube first to use as patterns. This helped a lot.

[Matt]

The flexible hose and -6 AN fittings supplied with the kit are made by Fragola.

The hose is meant to simply push over the two barbs on the fitting.

I heated the hose in boiling water, oiled the hose & fitting, clamped the fitting in a vice and spent ten minutes trying to wrestle the hose on. There was absolutely *no way* it was going over both barbs. No Way. And there were going to be about fourteen of these to make up.

So I made a clamping block with a cylindrical recess to hold the hose, and put the whole thing in the press . That showed it who was boss. Although to get the hose fully installed onto the 90-degree fittings you are right on the point of bending the elbow on the fitting itself.

[mopar_mark]

Great stuff Matt.

Good bit of ingenuity to overcome the issues with the barbs & hoses

[Matt]

Bit of an update on this . Been busy this year on other stuff , so not as much time as I'd like (or any time at all..) to work on the cars. I've also taken the engine out of the Charger and had it rebuilt/dynoed by John Sleath. He's raised the compression, fitted a very mild 'street' roller cam, and sorted out some valve guide/ seat issues.

However the engine is now back in, and up and running with the fuel injection setup. I'll take some pics etc and write some words when I have a bit of time. Throttle response and driveability is great, but I'm currently having trouble getting a good idle. The engine dies easily when very cold, and idle speed hunts when warm (the brain only starts learning and adjusting things once the engine's warmed up - it works on your presets up till then) .
There's a few things/ settings I need to adjust or check, so this should be solvable with a bit of head scratching.

Oh and I had problem with the MSD 6 digital ignition (brand new) It wouldn't fire at cranking speed. The issue appears solely rpm-related (not battery volts dropping etc) . I've taken the unit off and am using the old Orange Box for now, with a tach adaptor to feed the rpm signal to the efi unit. THe MSD-run help forum was pretty useless, so the box is now on the shelf until I can find time to test it properly.

[Pete]

Good to see you are still battling it, Matt.

Check out some of my threads on MSD's dying!!!

If it is a Digital 6 it could be set so it takes 20 degrees out of the timing when cranking - that could sod things up for you.

You can turn that facility off............