Hi all. New member.
Moderator: Moderators
if they made the aussie charger handle by ignoring factory settings
in NZ and Aus for saloon car circuit racing and often up against some of the best Europe had to offer at the time (saloons not super cars in this case)
there is really little reason other than weight on the nose to stop an E body handling
the size is different but the ratio of track to length and general proprortions of the car are similar
so in theory even though there must be a 300 kg weight difference
the spring rate /torsion bars chosen should compensate
alloy heads inlet small starter and alternator and the weight problems should be on the way out
most mopars suffer from
worn and sagging rear springs (re temper rather than replace for road use)
and
The factory settings used for camber caster and toe in
i have seen in print a number of times that a rear anti roll bar on a mopar is not necessary unless you are trying to cover up something wrong with the standard set-up i.e ride height and alignment or the combination of spring rates dampers spring front eye hight setting...
whether that is true or not i don't know but i do know that a car that has not been lowered handles better
driving on the suspension not the bump rubbers
Dave
in NZ and Aus for saloon car circuit racing and often up against some of the best Europe had to offer at the time (saloons not super cars in this case)
there is really little reason other than weight on the nose to stop an E body handling
the size is different but the ratio of track to length and general proprortions of the car are similar
so in theory even though there must be a 300 kg weight difference
the spring rate /torsion bars chosen should compensate
alloy heads inlet small starter and alternator and the weight problems should be on the way out
most mopars suffer from
worn and sagging rear springs (re temper rather than replace for road use)
and
The factory settings used for camber caster and toe in
i have seen in print a number of times that a rear anti roll bar on a mopar is not necessary unless you are trying to cover up something wrong with the standard set-up i.e ride height and alignment or the combination of spring rates dampers spring front eye hight setting...
whether that is true or not i don't know but i do know that a car that has not been lowered handles better
driving on the suspension not the bump rubbers
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
So much potential, but for my first classic car, I have a suspicion this will be a bit too much to take on 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1970-PLYMOUTH ... 4d04a29873

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1970-PLYMOUTH ... 4d04a29873
Looks pretty good to me & sounds like all you need do is install the motor properly, add exhaust & headers, new carpet & screen & you're good to go!Sasha wrote:So much potential, but for my first classic car, I have a suspicion this will be a bit too much to take on
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1970-PLYMOUTH ... 4d04a29873

Shaun 'Moparless' Senior
MMA Club Chairman
MMA Club Chairman
Budget-wise I don't have a set amount £X I want to spend - it really does depend on the car. Naturally I don't have stashes of money sitting around so we're not talking megabucks that some of these beauties are going for.
The reason I posted this one is that it does sound very appealing, but I just have no idea how much work & money finishing some thing like that would take - thus asking for advice on here
The reason I posted this one is that it does sound very appealing, but I just have no idea how much work & money finishing some thing like that would take - thus asking for advice on here

- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
Not sure how much work Blue got done on it before Jem decided to sell it. But it was pretty rotten. I think Blue sorted the chassis though and fitted frame connectors?Carl wrote:Doesn't sound like too much work to me if its just the engine to install to get it drivable, the rest can be done over time. I dont think you will find a big block cuda any better for that kind of money
Looks great in the photo's.
Hard to say if its worth the ££'s. The only way is to get in the car and go and see.......Just dont take the checkbook!
Hard to say if its worth the ££'s. The only way is to get in the car and go and see.......Just dont take the checkbook!

Dave Tildesley.....MMA-081
72 Dodge Dart
73 Plymouth Duster - SOLD
I wanna go so FAST i think i'm going to DIE!..........Then i'll shift into second!
"My Car is a work in progress, Probably never gonna get finished, never gonna have the money to Bananarama!!"
72 Dodge Dart
73 Plymouth Duster - SOLD
I wanna go so FAST i think i'm going to DIE!..........Then i'll shift into second!
"My Car is a work in progress, Probably never gonna get finished, never gonna have the money to Bananarama!!"
there is always this one still
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C311519
or this challenger
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C328305
Big price difference
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C311519
or this challenger
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C328305
Big price difference
If you can afford that i'd have it in a heartbeat (Cuda)........but then why look at £14k cars that need work.Carl wrote:there is always this one still
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C311519
or this challenger
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C328305
Big price difference
I would say the only issue in buying a fully restored/mint car is that its hard to personalise without detracting from what it is. It will always be linked with the previous owner/importer/builder too.
At least with a fixer you can put your own stamp and make it what you want.......then its a case of, oh yeah thats Sasha's car!

Dave Tildesley.....MMA-081
72 Dodge Dart
73 Plymouth Duster - SOLD
I wanna go so FAST i think i'm going to DIE!..........Then i'll shift into second!
"My Car is a work in progress, Probably never gonna get finished, never gonna have the money to Bananarama!!"
72 Dodge Dart
73 Plymouth Duster - SOLD
I wanna go so FAST i think i'm going to DIE!..........Then i'll shift into second!
"My Car is a work in progress, Probably never gonna get finished, never gonna have the money to Bananarama!!"



- Attachments
-
- 538768_10151154348449325_856039072_n.jpg (131.46 KiB) Viewed 1577 times
-
- 580239_337487286309097_100001434844555_920918_1096789782_n_small_174.jpg (69.64 KiB) Viewed 1576 times
-
- P5277284.jpg (169.12 KiB) Viewed 1575 times
-
- dscf4585_small_794.jpg (69.68 KiB) Viewed 1574 times
I`M PROUD TO BE AN ENGLISHMAN.......WITH A `68 GTX
This is the point im making, Sasha is saying the 14k Cuda is too much work, which is reflected in the price. So his other option is to spend 30k + unless he can find something in between, but the Hemi is out the window at those prices, and a 20k car wont be mintDave81 wrote:If you can afford that i'd have it in a heartbeat (Cuda)........but then why look at £14k cars that need work.Carl wrote:there is always this one still
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C311519
or this challenger
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C328305
Big price difference
I would say the only issue in buying a fully restored/mint car is that its hard to personalise without detracting from what it is. It will always be linked with the previous owner/importer/builder too.
At least with a fixer you can put your own stamp and make it what you want.......then its a case of, oh yeah thats Sasha's car!
-
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Sat Jan 08, 11 6:53 pm
- Location: oxford - the dreaming spires where cars in the city are banned