Which oil and how much of it?

NaughtyAlan · Post by **NaughtyAlan** » Sat Sep 29, 12 1:58 am

Hey AL , didn't that 512 use a 20lb bottle just sitting in the pits?

, that ole 512 hit the strip with a 250 shot of nitrous and no fuel?

, proper engine is that.

, not sure which is worse , yer right foot or no fuel.

Don't get Pete Wise started on the chisled intake.

Aka Brutus.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Sep 29, 12 7:31 am

Thank you for all your assistance.
As ever I was beaten by the clock but went for a semi synthetic and have put in a measured 8 litres. We will see how that goes.

The 20/50 mineral oil that was used for the break in came out like wee wee; not impressed..............glad that is now done.....

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Sat Sep 29, 12 12:09 pm

Thought the whole point of a big deep sump was to move the oil as far away as possible from the crank

Surely if you fill it to the same point on the dipstick, it will be back near the crank only holding even more oil ? and trapping more power sapping oil round the crank and also from returning to the sump

..a tray is a must also helping this.

Semi synthetic... 10 psi per 1000 rpm

a oil weight doubled will take 3-6% more power

Something i always do is put a small strong speaker magnet in the sump under the tray to catch all the minute metal bits floating around in the oil on a new motor...much more effective than a mag sump plug..... nothing escapes it.

Old Bose 802 units are magic for this...grip is unreal

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Sep 29, 12 12:17 pm

AllKiller wrote:...Thought the whole point of a big deep sump was to move the oil as far away as possible from the crank; Surely if you fill it to the same point on the dipstick, it will be back near the crank only holding even more oil ? :

Correct Steve, this is why I did not rely on the dipstick. Now I have a known volume in it I can "correct" the dipstick....

Also agreed on the 10psi per 1000rpm

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Sat Sep 29, 12 12:21 pm

If it reaches Pete

Ammended my post too

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sat Sep 29, 12 12:30 pm

What a great idea Steve.... I never even thought of a magnet in the sump to keep oil tip top!!

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sat Sep 29, 12 12:41 pm

AllKiller wrote:Old Bose 802 units are magic for this...grip is unreal

When started out in the AV business the Bose 802 was the latest thing.

I installed loads of them all over Newcastle and used them on mobile PA systems too.

Those 8 speaker cones move in and out a hell of a lot and yes the magnets on them are bloody strong indeed.

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Sat Sep 29, 12 1:12 pm

Pete wrote:
AllKiller wrote:...Thought the whole point of a big deep sump was to move the oil as far away as possible from the crank; Surely if you fill it to the same point on the dipstick, it will be back near the crank only holding even more oil ? :
Correct Steve, this is why I did not rely on the dipstick. Now I have a known volume in it I can "correct" the dipstick....

Also agreed on the 10psi per 1000rpm

you need to hammer that sucker in the burnout pete then gun it out look at your oil light or gauge if it dips real bad go up half a pint,
same at the top end of the track if its dropping bad again go up half pint till sorted

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Sep 29, 12 1:20 pm

Thanks, buddy!!

NaughtyAlan · Post by **NaughtyAlan** » Sat Sep 29, 12 1:59 pm

AllKiller wrote:
Surely if you fill it to the same point on the dipstick, it will be back near the crank only holding even more oil ?

Oil pump mods along with full time oiling to heads (grooved #4 cam bearing etc) will require a larger volume of oil , especially if oil drain back is an issue.

Aka Brutus.

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Sat Sep 29, 12 6:12 pm

Adam, if you have full time oiling to the heads , dont they do restrictors to reduce how much is held up in the head area ??

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Sep 29, 12 6:34 pm

The motor in question has full time oiling but has a different drain back approach due to the conversion heads. I thought most restrictions were put into the block prior to inserting the cam bearing....this is a bit of an unknown quantity and we may have to modify it in due course.

I quite like the idea of a fair bit of oil in the heads for lubrication and cooling and also to drip on the Roller cam........

It's all a learning process..........

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Sat Sep 29, 12 8:47 pm

Pete wrote:The motor in question has full time oiling but has a different drain back approach due to the conversion heads. I thought most restrictions were put into the block prior to inserting the cam bearing....this is a bit of an unknown quantity and we may have to modify it in due course.

I quite like the idea of a fair bit of oil in the heads for lubrication and cooling and also to drip on the Roller cam........

It's all a learning process..........

you can drill the rocker stand pete the bit that marries up to the oil hole on the heads and put jets in to restrict it just check i think i did that on the stage heads ps that rocker gear/ pushrods never ever went bad on adjustment it got reved in the 7,6 bracket and loved it,

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Sep 29, 12 9:01 pm

Useful info, good to know thanks Duncan.

NaughtyAlan · Post by **NaughtyAlan** » Sun Sep 30, 12 10:18 am

[quote="AllKiller"]

Something i always do is put a small strong speaker magnet in the sump under the tray to catch all the minute metal bits floating around in the oil on a new motor...much more effective than a mag sump plug..... nothing escapes it.

So all the swarf on the magnet you cant get to on the magnet in the sump, stays in there

Il stick with the magnetic sump plug, that can be cleaned, when changing oil