Upper balljoint spot weld - ? IS this normal ?

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Sat Jan 26, 13 10:47 am

Just a quick sanity check.
Cracking the big nuts on the upper balljoits (20ft wrecking bar at the ready

) but something odd.

The socket wont go on as they seem to have been spot welded ???
I mean I will grind it off and see if they go, but is this normal ? I assumed it was grease at first but it aint - its weld !

Charger · Post by **Charger** » Sat Jan 26, 13 11:11 am

not normal, but i'm sure someone mentioned on here doing that in the past for extra security so the joints don't pull out as it's only a fine thread ...

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sat Jan 26, 13 11:25 am

It has probably failed at some point and someone has done this when installing the new ball joint (or re-installing the original one as a bodge).

For safety you will have to assume the worst and replace it.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Jan 26, 13 12:03 pm

UCA's are the same for '72 - '76 A bodies and '70 - '74 E bodies and your actual '68 - '70 Chargers.

I think Hillbilly Tom went for sexy UCA's on his Charger so he may have a spare (they are handed).

The Upper Ball joints are VERY easy to get in on the Bananarama! as mentioned due to the fine thread and it is not obvious until you are "well in" OHHH Matron.

Be very careful.

Good luck

Pete

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Sat Jan 26, 13 12:52 pm

Yep Bodge...i'd change it.

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Sat Jan 26, 13 1:31 pm

Shiny new moogs boxed and waiting - this one just has to come out !
Thanks all. Thought it was odd...

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Jan 26, 13 1:40 pm

I think the point is that most people would counsel changing the UCA as well as the ball joint........

drewcrane · Post by **drewcrane** » Sat Jan 26, 13 2:24 pm

That was a common way to repair the UCA without replacing it .

I was poor and did the same thing I just didnt have the money at the time and later sold the car,

Yea a good idea to replace it

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Sat Jan 26, 13 5:06 pm

Pete wrote:I think the point is that most people would counsel changing the UCA as well as the ball joint........

Ah !
Thanks Pete. You know you have to spell it out for me.

Next thread will be 'UCA- tubular or stock. Recommendations please'

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Sat Jan 26, 13 5:16 pm

TUBULAR EXPENSIVE..BUT WORTH IT.

Stock easier and possibly available here

drewcrane · Post by **drewcrane** » Sat Jan 26, 13 7:28 pm

Yea tubular

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Jan 26, 13 7:31 pm

Tubular - If you understand a car's geometry and know how to set it up....no easy task.

If I were you I would get a good stock replacement, they also Re-pop them now, I beleive..........

Adrian Worman · Post by **Adrian Worman** » Sat Jan 26, 13 8:20 pm

Pete wrote:Tubular - If you understand a car's geometry and know how to set it up....no easy task.

If I were you I would get a good stock replacement, they also Re-pop them now, I beleive..........

Bang on Pete.......
A pair of good used cores from Dunc and a set of Moog offset bushings, all the adjustment you'll ever need.
Talk to roger at Monkfish Racing, he'll be setting up my Challenger in a couple of months time if I get my arse into gear

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sun Jan 27, 13 7:45 am

The ball joint in threaded so is the top arm.

You screw the ball joint in and stop at a set torque

Over the year people have over tighten them and the top
arm treads are Bananarama!

one of Mine new ball joints where so close to the torque and i felt it start to slip.

I think the tread design is bad and could let go when you do duke jumps.

I welded mine on both side and they ant going anywhere now.
took me to long to weld them wings up

When a ball joint goes i will buy aftermarket top arms with a modem ball joint design,

Anton was making some i think try asking him

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Sun Jan 27, 13 2:05 pm

Also over the years some have pressed them out in a press, not realising they are suppose to screw out.........another way to knacker the threads!

But if you can grind out the weld and get the balljoint out, have a look and see what the thread looks like. Sometimes the weld was just a belt and braces, you might be alright.