HALFORDS CLASSIC MOTOR OIL

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Sat Apr 06, 13 5:32 pm

Thanks for all your replies but a lot of you are missing the point. I'm not after a recommendation oil wise for my Dart. I'm trying to find out if the halfords classic oil has more zinc and less detergents than the modern oil.
This is for my Coronet, mild 440 with a small hyd cam.
respectfully Mick

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Sat Apr 06, 13 6:16 pm

Their website says it does have ZDDP but won't disclose how much, but also says the Zinc content is about 0.07% (i.e. 700ppm).

So - PROBABLY about 1400ppm ZDDP which is about good enough - but not confirmed. If you think your engine requires a good ZDDP content I wouldn't use it without further confirmation.

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Sat Apr 06, 13 6:43 pm

I plan to throw a bottle of GM EOS in with it.
Mick

steveo · Post by **steveo** » Sat Apr 06, 13 10:32 pm

latil wrote:Don't know about the zinc,but it appears to be Duckhams in a Halfords can. It smells like the old Duckhams and is the same green. I'll guess that it's produced and packed by Comma Oil at Dartford. My boys use it in their Fiesta MK1's and I use it in my 318 with nasty effects so far.

pretty sure it is the same duckhams , put in a halfords can , looks smells

, feels

like duckhams , have it from a reliable source , that good percentage of the big name oil companys buy their oil from one supplier & put it in their own can ,

have used number of oils over the years , kendell valvoline etc , also run various castrol blends in the charger too , & more recently with the compcams additive ,
no problems with any ,
i have / had , still

experementing with various cams , intakes & heads, , each time cam removed , perfect !!

i'm waffling on a bit now i know ,

last cam swap i done , it fell on a weekend , well sunday was perfect for break in , pouring hard , torentual rain , gale force winds , meaning no nosey people next door , or with in a half mile radius , wanting to know whats going on & am i going to paint it orange

after cam break in , went with
HALFORDS CLASSIC & a bottle & half of Torco zinc additive , figuring , if this cam was bit too radical , for gay 2.94 gears & a
tightish converter , & had to change back , not wasted the 10 litres of valvoline vr1 20/50 mineral on the shelf , would put that in if ok !! etc , well in a nut shell , cut a long story short! had the halfords classic in with torco additive for about 625 miles , with hours of idiling too , ( although have hot idle oil pressure of 40 - 45 psi at 850rpm ) , inspected cam & lifters , perfect , cam still had the black phospate coating on believe it or not , still got the halfords classic in now for the time being

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performan ... -protector

http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/zep.html

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Sat Apr 06, 13 10:44 pm

Thank you Steveo, answered in one.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Apr 06, 13 11:55 pm

I am going to use a mineral oil (cheap) with the above additive for the break-in period for a hydraulic (non-roller) cam, and then bin it out after break-in for semi-synthetic.

One thing - I made damn sure that all the lifters were rotating on assembly.

It will either work or it won't....

I will update accordingly (if it works!!!)

the dodge · Post by **the dodge** » Sun Apr 07, 13 10:34 am

is it really that tricky when doing a cam break in, it sounds like its almost hit and miss if it works or doesnt, i sort of understand the oil bit but wouldnt it break in better with a "quality oil" and protect the bearings more???

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sun Apr 07, 13 10:42 am

It does sometimes seem like cam break in is a 'black art', but as Pete says, ensure that all lifters are properly rotating.
Make sure ignition is spot on and that the car starts straight up.
Lather cam and lifters in correct break in lube and proceed with break in. I do variable revs of 1800rpm plus for 20 minutes.
Done two comp cams without a problem.
Does annoy the neighbours though!

I used basic cheap oil just for the break in as its getting chucked 20 minutes later

This was on two 'cooking motors', not a ten second beastie!

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Apr 07, 13 10:44 am

Break in is a different matter than every day running and the lubricants need different properties.

I believe that additives are one factor in break in, and I personally use a mineral oil on initial start up and a synthetic one for subsequent use.

However, I have learned that there are other factors in breaking in a cam.

One aspect out of my control is the quality of the components and the case hardening of the cam. Just try to buy quality products.

I know of very competent people who have totalled a quality engine during break-in. It is still heart-in-mouth time.................

the dodge · Post by **the dodge** » Sun Apr 07, 13 11:14 am

bull by the horns then

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sun Apr 07, 13 11:48 am

Many posts on yank forums to testify whatbPrte says. Using high pressure valve springs is one way to get it wrong by all accounts.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Apr 07, 13 2:58 pm

Aye, in these situations it is best to remove inner set of springs, break cam in and then re-install inner springs. What a carry on............

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Sun Apr 07, 13 4:05 pm

Read everything that Pete said and do that......you will not have a problem.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Mon Apr 08, 13 9:49 am

have used halfords oil and comma for ten years in standard engine and no issues

i will be getting some branded copetition type Millers or valvoline or some such when i have a better engine.

the green stuff isn't a specialist oil, for race and competition
it will have the maximum allowable levels of zinc derived additives permisssbale under some EU rules which of course have environment and catalytic converters at their heart.

which is usually about 1/2 to 3/4 of what you would want for cam break in.

it appears to be pefectly suitable for normal operation with standard springs on a flat tappet cam.

spring presures of say ball park 135 on the seat and 335 at full lift would be a point where i have read you'd want this oil + additive or indeed a better oil designed for competition engine

the additive package in this oil does not actively promote the carridage of particles up to the filter

it will result in more sludge in the sump

so it is unwise to swap from this type of oil to a modern oil which will pick up all the crap left over from years of oil changes and ram it into your new filter at the first oportunity

pick 1
stick with it
use an additive if your cam and spring preasures dicate

Dave

Dave