Having got the windscreen out, removed the instruments and most of the trim not to mention a years global production of filler, there is yet more evidence of the tinworm at work.
Is it sensible to remove the entire dash panel? Seems to be connected to the car by a few self tappers next the screen, a couple of bolts, one each side, in the footwell and what looks like a naff spot weld joining it to two or three layers of sheet metalwork. If this is sensible it would likely make repairing the panel rot in the footwell area much easier. This obviously needs to done right to preserve (recover?) structural integrity.
As always, help much appreciated. To be totally honest I've felt like giving up this week. Missed the nationals, again, watched the live stream on internet and wondered what the hellI'm doing spending time on this heap of junk. But then, it is a genuine Superbee (WM23N0A vin) so probably worth saving.
70 Superbee bodywork questions
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- Posts: 70
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- Location: Stourbridge
70 Superbee bodywork questions
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- bee33.jpg (61.77 KiB) Viewed 747 times
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- Naff spotweld, probably Mopsr original?
- bee32.jpg (42.91 KiB) Viewed 747 times
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- Bolt attaching dash to body in footwell
- bee31.jpg (59.17 KiB) Viewed 747 times
I'd take the dash out at this point .
Self tappers under the screen
bolt each side into the A-pillar
probably some stays to come off around the pedalbox/steering column
and it'll lift straight out . there should be no spot welds holding it in .
When putting everything back together, it's also much easier to reassemble the instruments , wiring etc into the dash, then fit the whole assembly to the car after it's done.
Self tappers under the screen
bolt each side into the A-pillar
probably some stays to come off around the pedalbox/steering column
and it'll lift straight out . there should be no spot welds holding it in .
When putting everything back together, it's also much easier to reassemble the instruments , wiring etc into the dash, then fit the whole assembly to the car after it's done.
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- Posts: 70
- Joined: Tue Mar 29, 11 4:57 pm
- Location: Stourbridge
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- Posts: 70
- Joined: Tue Mar 29, 11 4:57 pm
- Location: Stourbridge
70 Superbee bodywork questions - The next step?
Have now removed the dash so can see the hidden damage.
The heater/aircon unit looks a complete mess. Can this work effectively as just a heater and is it worth trying to save the existing unit? I'n not bothered about air con but would like a heater. Any suggestions welcome.
The lower part of the A posts, both sides, are well rusted, Could make up some repair panels but they wouldn't look that great. Does anyone know if repair panels or patches are available and where I can get them?
Wiring can wait, despite the mess the car will still fire up OK, amazing really and that must be due to the quality of the engine rebuild a few years ago by Dave B. I admit I do start it occasionally, the V8 sound is a great motivator.
The heater/aircon unit looks a complete mess. Can this work effectively as just a heater and is it worth trying to save the existing unit? I'n not bothered about air con but would like a heater. Any suggestions welcome.
The lower part of the A posts, both sides, are well rusted, Could make up some repair panels but they wouldn't look that great. Does anyone know if repair panels or patches are available and where I can get them?
Wiring can wait, despite the mess the car will still fire up OK, amazing really and that must be due to the quality of the engine rebuild a few years ago by Dave B. I admit I do start it occasionally, the V8 sound is a great motivator.
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- That'll be the wiring then
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- Driver side rot
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- Pass side rot
- Bee44.jpg (57.31 KiB) Viewed 656 times
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- AirCon/Heater inlet
- Bee41.jpg (50.42 KiB) Viewed 656 times
- Adrian Worman
- Posts: 4376
- Joined: Mon Aug 02, 10 1:23 pm
- Location: Milton Keynes
As far as the heater box goes, just pull it all out. The air con unit can be rebuilt but it'll be expensive. Having said that its a neat option to have on a car already worth saving. Grab a used std heater unit from someone on here and use that while you research restoring the factory piece.
As for the rot in the posts, I've seen worse, you've done loads so far, just keep at it.............. seeing rust in all sorts of places puts you off easy, but in reality the patches are fairly easy to repair and they just become a longer list of jobs to do. Nobody is gonna see that one anyway
As for the rot in the posts, I've seen worse, you've done loads so far, just keep at it.............. seeing rust in all sorts of places puts you off easy, but in reality the patches are fairly easy to repair and they just become a longer list of jobs to do. Nobody is gonna see that one anyway

Jesus built my hot rod
72 Challenger
65 Barracuda
72 Challenger
65 Barracuda
I removed the A/C from my Cuda rightly or wrong but I have no heater as the engine does the job fine but when it rains it not good
instant steamed up windows
so I don't use it in the rain....simples
Get a heater to replace the A/C and keep the A/C unit to go with the car if you sell it.
instant steamed up windows
so I don't use it in the rain....simples

Get a heater to replace the A/C and keep the A/C unit to go with the car if you sell it.

ALL KILLER NO FILLER
Nostalgia, its not what it used to be.
Carbon footprint of a Saturn V

Nostalgia, its not what it used to be.
Carbon footprint of a Saturn V

- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
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Just remove the AC aspects of it. There is already a heater core in there as well.
On my car I removed the AC and the Heater core (because the heater core was leaking) but kept the heater box, ducting to the screen, and fan.
I simply fixed the various trap doors in the system to blow up onto the screen. Then fitted switches to work the fan at its three speeds.
That way, if it rained I could keep the screen clear. As I usually only used the car during British Summer Time it never needed the heater.
On my car I removed the AC and the Heater core (because the heater core was leaking) but kept the heater box, ducting to the screen, and fan.
I simply fixed the various trap doors in the system to blow up onto the screen. Then fitted switches to work the fan at its three speeds.
That way, if it rained I could keep the screen clear. As I usually only used the car during British Summer Time it never needed the heater.