Non-Starter - now a starter and appears to be a runner!

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Oct 03, 13 4:01 pm

RobTwin wrote:Re Ballast Resistors - I have this article scanned and saved on my work pc, so thought I'd throw it in here in case there's any useful info. At first glance, I see they say right at the end of the 3rd page that you can bypass BR if using elec ign.

You still need a resistor if using the stock coil otherwise it will get hot. Getting hot increases the internal resistance and it flows even less current than it did at the lower voltage.

The MSD coil is designed to work at the higher voltage. That is why you don't need the resistor. However if you have points they will burn out real quick.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Oct 03, 13 4:02 pm

And for the third time. CHECK IT IS NOT THE IGNITION SWITCH.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Thu Oct 03, 13 5:23 pm

That coil has 0.7 ohm resistance built in
need a ballast resistor for points.

and id suggest a ballast resitor for standard ignition box 1 .3 ohm and orange boxes and chrome boxes the latter 2 specify blaster coil and 1/4 ohm resistor

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Coi ... _Coil.aspx

http://www.mopar.com/assets/pdf/perform ... ronics.pdf

either way i think even with your full fat ballast and this coil you would still be able to start the car.

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Thu Oct 03, 13 5:35 pm

Dave wrote:And for the third time. CHECK IT IS NOT THE IGNITION SWITCH.

That's what I was thinking

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Thu Oct 03, 13 7:17 pm

Hi Stu....cant offer much help in the way of advice but (and I know some bits have been offered already) but I have a spare electronic reg and wiring harness you can have and can also send you my brass feelers and meter to use if you want??

Cheers Steve

DaveB · Post by **DaveB** » Thu Oct 03, 13 9:48 pm

Has Dave says have you checked the ignition switch,your probably losing the cold start wire on cranking,brown wire,

sublimemike · Post by **sublimemike** » Thu Oct 03, 13 10:10 pm

Damned ignition switches - mine went intermittent. Sometimes it would start , sometimes it didn't.

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Thu Oct 03, 13 11:06 pm

Similar thing happened to mine, it would start and get you where you wanted to go, then it wouldn't start to get you home again.

Tried everything, replaced pretty much everything, spoke to Dave R who advised looking at the ignition switch, replaced it and problem solved.

I have spares.

£5.00 each if you want / need one

Post by **MattH** » Thu Oct 03, 13 11:21 pm

I'm not an expert here but the 70 Coronet that Keith used to own had a similar problem, I spoke to him a few weeks ago and he ended up wiring a switched feed to the coil to bypass everything whilst cranking which got it started each time, but means it could be several things, such as the igntion switch, which i think he said was looking the likely suspect, but I may not have remembered it all correctly

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Fri Oct 04, 13 9:11 am

It could be the igntion switch

but on a seroius note just wire direct battery to the left end of the balast and see if you can start it

but rember you can't stop it without pulling off that wire

Dave

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Fri Oct 04, 13 9:48 am

Rebel wrote:Similar thing happened to mine, it would start and get you where you wanted to go, then it wouldn't start to get you home again.

Tried everything, replaced pretty much everything, spoke to Dave R who advised looking at the ignition switch, replaced it and problem solved.

I have spares.

£5.00 each if you want / need one

ummm.. I'll have one please !

TW71 · Post by **TW71** » Fri Oct 04, 13 12:00 pm

I had around 1 ohm contact resistance on my ignition switch on the running position causing volt drop to the system, took it apart and saw the carbon build up and pitted contacts , not surprising considering the age of the switch!

RobTwin · Post by **RobTwin** » Fri Oct 04, 13 2:35 pm

Thanks again for all the replies chaps

Apparently, the ignition switches are 1-year only, so our 69 might not be an exact match for a 68, or 70 etc, but may be close enough just to see if that's where the problem is.

So, Rebel, yes please, we would like to try one of your spares. I'll PM ya.
If it works, we'll look into getting a new '69 replacement. US Automotive dont carry them as stock items and are on a 2 - 3 week delivery. There is one on ebay that looks a good option but that'll be around £70 by the time it drops on our doorstep with Parcel Farce charges

We'll check ours for loose wires, corrosion etc first tho.

Stu's gonna get a meter from work for the weekend, so if we can work out what to do with it, we'll see what we can find out

Also gonna get some brass feeler gauges as ours are all steel. Thanks for the offer of the loan Steve, but we may as well have a set.

I've got the new Rev-n-nator to try now, so we'll also have to make sure all these components match their recommendations.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Fri Oct 04, 13 4:54 pm

check the junction for green corrosion (4 wires) about 3 inches along the cable from the bottom of the ignition switch

my knee still shows the scare from my small fire

Dave

Stu Twin · Post by **Stu Twin** » Sat Oct 05, 13 12:03 am

Cheers guys, got me a(nother) set of feelers with one brass one @ 0.010" and an ok multimeter. So tomorrow i'll set the reluctor gap, and do a few checks as recommended. Will remove drivers seat for easier access to Ign switch - can't be doing with all that contortionism.