$ speed

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pete walton
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$ speed

Post by pete walton »

Just trying to livun the forum up a bit and we all like a bit of techyyy stuff ,,,so when the new car arrives,,,and if i keep it,,, plan is to reinstate the 4 speed,,,,,done some homework ... it seems the way to go is 18 spline,aftermarket clutch can,, in case the unthinkable happens,,,,one of those fancy hydraulic clutch fork thingys ,and a twin clutch set up ....How many horse will that take before it gives up the ghost.... Seems to be a bit of 4 speed action in the club at the moment and i can not seem to find a lot of info about them ,,,,727s are well documented .. No talk about staying with the auto ,thats just boring :thumbright:You can buy all sorts of beef up stuff for 4 speeds from Brewers ,,so game on
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Pete
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Post by Pete »

Freudian slip??

"$" instead of "4" .

Yep, the Upgraded parts will cost, plus a great Prop, a good axle and a broom for when you side-step Ronnie Sox style.....enjoy.

PS: It is a real bitch when you side-step at the track and the clutch over-travels and ends up under the dash so you can't de-clutch................
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pete walton
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Post by pete walton »

Pete what revs did you launch at,,Did you use any sort of fancy clutch...I know the forks are a bit naf but there is a hydraulic system that i stumbled across that is meant to be bullit proof???....Mcleod make it ,,,Quick time clutch can is the nuts ......Times moved on Pete since you rowed a $ speed http://www.mcleodracing.com/products/13 ... ch+Kit.mcl
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Pete
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Post by Pete »

Time has moved on but they are still Bananarama!.

I used a Centreforce. Not convinced they are up to track usage, but good on the street - still end up with a leg like Popeye after a while....I had a 2 stage rpm control and launched at about 3750rpm as I had to drive home. Ronnie launched at 7K....and then said to the pit crew "I need another one" when it went Kablooeee....I heard that they filed every other tooth off so the gears would engage quickly at higher RPM....

I had a steel clutch can on the Barracuda. Fully re-enforced clutch pivot that still bent....killing release bearings every 3-4 months.....De-clutching was a voyage of discovery as the adjustment changed about 50 times on every outing....all very nasty, really.......

REV LIMITER is mandatory, one missed shift and its bye bye engine....still a good drive spoiled..........now, a LENCO...... :read2:
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Pete
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Post by Pete »

To my mind the "Z-Bar" was the weak link.

I think the Hydraulic bearing may go some way to sorting out consistency, providing you can get the ratio's correct............
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Post by Ivor »

Well Pete I have to admire your guts!

Just my opinion, but if I had an overwhelming desire to run a manual transmission on an old Mopar, with anything more than a minor hop up of the motor, I think I would go for a modern Tremec.

But you will still need a fat prop and a Dana!
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Adrian Worman
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Post by Adrian Worman »

It's about time we had some proper 4speed action goin on here........ well done Pete ;)
Those twin plate clutch and fly assy's are good for some big numbers, but I too would look at a hyd release mechanism.
I'm goin to stick a twin pack in me Chally when I drop the stroker into it.
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Pete
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Post by Pete »

Adrian Worman wrote: ,,,,,,,,,..........I'm goin to stick a twin pack in me Chally when I drop the stroker into it.

And a trash can behind it for when all the bits drop out ;)

Remember, if you are not breaking it, you are not driving it hard enough :evil: :evil: :evil: ;)
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

for solid clutching and no variation of bite point you need one of these.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mopar-Clutch- ... 3387629d56

or

you buy a slave cylinder from a BMW which can be mounted on angle iron bracket on the side of the bellhousing where the Z bar pivot mounting went and bolted to the orignial fork.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksi ... &_from=R40

and you mount the clutch master facing wrong way up the steering column and use the wrong end of the clutch peddle mounting shaft to actuate it. as you push clutch down the top end comes towards you and presses the plunger down the master cylinder mounted to the column bracket

seemingly works really well. and saves spending 200 -$500 on a concentric slave that bolts to your 4 speed front bearing retainer from one of the race shops

the BMW part is 30 quid

gusset your clutch fork and you can go mental on clutch pressure by varying the bores on your hydraulic clutch....
get a billet fork lump bolted into your bell

heavy weight clutch and legs like string....not a problemo

and it all looks Kinda nearly mostly nearly standard ish looking

Mmwahhhhhahahahahaha (evil laugh)

Dave
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

in that position the clutch master is below the height of the brake master so you can feed it from a drilling in the side of your brake master cylinder..

mwahahahah

I am indeed on a roll today


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Post by Dave999 »

dual plate clutch is a heavy old bugger that means you will also need a harmonic balancer that take this into account...

the variation that a dual plate makes on harmonic vibration in the crank should not be underestimated

not as bad on a 8 as it is on a six but.....

and they tend to drag.....

steel flywheel makes sense like a converter housing guard makes sense on an auto

feet are useful for getting from the car to the bar

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pete walton
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Post by pete walton »

As usual Dave some good stuff there :thumbright: in the picture you can see the mopar trans mount thingy ,,,i guess this is no good for the manual box,,, has anyone got a picture of one??? can you still get the long hurst shifter?? DB was yours a $speed from the factory ... lets see your mount////
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GTXJim
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Post by GTXJim »

A mate had a 5 speed tremec with a dana, and he did 2 clutches in 500 miles, he's sold it now, and has just had a 727 built by Roger Luty, I think my old 4 speed st1200 lenco is still for sale with the boninfante clutch and trick titanium bell housing, if 4 speed you want that is the only way to go......
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Pete
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Post by Pete »

:thumbright: :thumbright: :thumbright:
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GTXJim
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Post by GTXJim »

Pete, you are missing your handbrake cable, you will need that for your MOT
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