Rear diff seal replacement.

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Mar 31, 14 2:57 pm

How involved is this job? I don't have any problems with the diff other than a good ol' fashioned "historic vehicle preservation applicator" or oil; leak.

The leak is enough to leave say 3 or 4 tea spoons a week (please note that these are BS Calibrated tea spoons as used during the reign of the British Empire)

Can I remove the 4 UJ bolts to drop the prop shaft then remove the flange nut on the pinion shaft, remove and then replace the seal and torque it all back up again? Or are we in full disassemble/back lash setting/ potential to mess it up territory?

Or are you all laughing at why am I worrying about a leaky diff "it's an old car"

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Mar 31, 14 3:48 pm

Think you can with that diff.

Where is your service manual?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Mar 31, 14 3:55 pm

That nut on the end of the pinion needs to be torqued to 240lbs/ft though. You need a BIG torque wrench.

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Mar 31, 14 5:44 pm

I was half reading it on the iPad and half doing a quote for work

I guess I was after an honest opinion from experience. It seems to presume you'd be doing other work to the diff so it gets a brief mention towards the end and as you say 240 ftlb

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Mar 31, 14 8:42 pm

That nut will be soooooo tight to get off

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Mar 31, 14 9:30 pm

Yes I have made the mistake of taking the diff off the car before undoing that nut before.....

Wheels on blocks and a fing big lever.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Mar 31, 14 9:36 pm

Dave wrote:Yes I have made the mistake of taking the diff off the car before undoing that nut before.....

Wheels on blocks and a fing big lever.

me to

JohnR · Post by **JohnR** » Mon Mar 31, 14 9:57 pm

MMMMMMMMMMMM good job I have a MASOOOOOOOHIVE big one that goes up to about 20000 ft lbs used to use it to do up the through bolts on the hydraulic breakers for the JCB's they had to be done up to 1500 ft lbs so good luck

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Mar 31, 14 10:00 pm

I was planning on hand brake, wheels chocked and strapped to ramp beds then stand underneath with a truck mechanic mates torque wrench

By chance, he runs his own JCB repair company

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Mon Mar 31, 14 10:05 pm

Or. You could always swap your leaky Demon for a leaky more door Coronet.
You'd get the better deal as mines at the half shaft so an easy fix !

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Mon Mar 31, 14 10:13 pm

A decent impact gun should buzz the nut off.....

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Mar 31, 14 10:40 pm

Snapon high out put gun no chance

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Mar 31, 14 10:47 pm

Mossy68 wrote:Or. You could always swap your leaky Demon for a leaky more door Coronet.
You'd get the better deal as mines at the half shaft so an easy fix !

"Leaky" ain't the word dude, I got fluid pouring out the large lock ring on the steering box now!!! Buts that's a whole other thread

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Mar 31, 14 10:49 pm

Blue wrote:A decent impact gun should buzz the nut off.....

That's what I was hoping. I got one that spins the workshop floor if you can hang on for the ride

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Mon Mar 31, 14 10:50 pm

Demon James wrote:
Mossy68 wrote:Or. You could always swap your leaky Demon for a leaky more door Coronet.
You'd get the better deal as mines at the half shaft so an easy fix !
"Leaky" ain't the word dude, I got fluid pouring out the large lock ring on the steering box now!!! Buts that's a whole other thread

The Coronets steering is bone dry ......deal ?