Stinkystinky. Herts/bucks engine tuner ?

Adrian Worman · Post by **Adrian Worman** » Sun Sep 28, 14 6:27 pm

RW71 wrote:Morgan, I am looking for a fairly local rolling road as well. I spotted these guys details signwritten on a 9 second blown MGB at the Nats. They are based in Bletchley, I phoned them recently and they seemed very helpful and clued up. I intend to give them a try at some point.
http://marlinmotors.boschauto.co.uk/

Yeah he's a good guy, has these Saturday morning dyno meets, you just turn up and strap it on.
He's about 5 minutes from my yard Morgan

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Mon Sep 29, 14 12:21 pm

OK. Thanks chaps - sounds like a good bet. Nothing will beat a sensor up the pipes, a real time power readout to get her in the zone. I'll get my fuel leak sorted and change my dizzy settings first and see where I am - then when I go see Ade maybe I'll pop along and see them.

More new on that front - fittings arrived today. Looks good - will get them in this week.

More timing reading. More I read, the more I am convinced on my timing theory. My engine is wayyyy mild, so going to have a very soft cam in there. Seems the longer the cam, the higher the initial. In short, I have way over set my numbers at 18/34. Going to redo the advance stop bushing, lighten the springs and get the initial back to about 10 (stockish). 24deg advance (so 34@3000rpm still) should still give me what I need.
In theory, this should enable me to hook up the vac-can (which according to MSD can advance up to 10).

Will let you know, but basically I think I shot myself in the foot by setting an aggressive dizzy setup for a mild car.

Watch this space...

Scooby · Post by **Scooby** » Mon Sep 29, 14 1:40 pm

Morgan if you do pop up to this place give us a heads up and we're meet you up there. ( I also like bling to !!)
Rich.

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Mon Sep 29, 14 1:59 pm

Scooby wrote:Morgan if you do pop up to this place give us a heads up and we're meet you up there. ( I also like bling to !!)
Rich.

Will do.

Bling is proving troublesome - braided hose does not readily fit into the adapters. May have to ditch it and go rubber... Will try properly at home.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Sep 29, 14 3:17 pm

morgan wrote:Will let you know, but basically I think I shot myself in the foot by setting an aggressive dizzy setup for a mild car.

Watch this space...

Nope. Wrong Morgan. You need at least 18 degrees on a stock engine. Been there and done it a few times now.

If you go back to 10 initial you will have to put the vacuum advance onto manifold vacuum. Which will give you 20 degrees advance at idle.

That will work but it's just doing the same thing another way.

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Mon Sep 29, 14 3:40 pm

Dave wrote:
morgan wrote:Will let you know, but basically I think I shot myself in the foot by setting an aggressive dizzy setup for a mild car.

Watch this space...
Nope. Wrong Morgan. You need at least 18 degrees on a stock engine. Been there and done it a few times now.

If you go back to 10 initial you will have to put the vacuum advance onto manifold vacuum. Which will give you 20 degrees advance at idle.

That will work but it's just doing the same thing another way.

Yep; I agree. But isnt that the point ? The vacuum allows idle to sit with a far lower initial (say 10, factory stock) but the second you get on the gas it pulls the ignition round to 20ish, which is where I have it set now ?

Unless I am misunderstanding, my objective is to hit pretty much the curve you describe BUT allow the vacuum its 10deg leeway when it wants it ? (i.e. idle or cruising). Nailing it, normal mechanical rules apply; vacuum does nothing.

Its a learning curve for me (sic). I have not done this but I am reading up fast. I need to play around and put these theories to the test. If I can get this vacuum working, de-stinky the car (which is my only real objective) the curve I have 18-34 is sweet...

I am curious how those with mechanical only de-stinky the car though. Unless all the marks are a mile out as you mentioned earlier. (I dont think so, car runs too nice, but it might be that I suppose)

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Sep 29, 14 4:18 pm

Manifold vacuum is highest at idle. So you will be sitting at 20 degrees at idle. 10 mechanical + 10 vacuum (if connected to manifold vac.).

When you open the throttle manifold vacuum (and advance) drop.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Sep 29, 14 4:20 pm

Leave the dizzy alone and fix the carb. Leave the vacuum advance off for now until you get the engine running and carb tuned correctly.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Mon Sep 29, 14 4:26 pm

Braided hose is a real git to assemble until you've done it a few times, then it's just a git....

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Sep 29, 14 4:41 pm

Yes you must stock up on Elastoplasts before you start.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Mon Sep 29, 14 5:06 pm

Yep, you also need to tightly wrap with tape before you cut with a thin cut off wheel or Dremel. Don't set about it with a hacksaw, you'll end up with a horrible frayed mess. I only do brake, fuel and oil pressure lines in braided these days, and that usually ends up in bloodshed

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Sep 29, 14 9:38 pm

I have all this to come

Thin Alu disks on a grinder

And loads of Electrical tape that you cut though

Any tops tips let is know

TW71 · Post by **TW71** » Mon Sep 29, 14 11:16 pm

I used electrical tape but it melted, I found masking tape ok , many turns and tight as possible.

I used a hacksaw with fine blades but it took patience!

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Tue Sep 30, 14 8:19 am

Oh. Now I am concerned. I did it all last night before reading this and it seemed to go well. Usually when you guys say easy it take me weeks. Now you are saying hard and I manage it in an hour or so. That doesnt seem right... (masking tape first, fine blade hacksaw. The fittings I had were cut with a reverse thread in the sleeve; holding the pipe gently in a vice, holding the sleeve in a set of grips I managed to keep my hands away and get the pipe seated. After that it was just screw in the actual fitting... )

I should have taken a picture but I think I am all done.
Of course at the moment I have not run fuel through it (so it could spray everywhere) but I dont think so). I put fingers over the fitting ends and sucked the pipe end onto my tongue and it hung there without losing vacuum... I figured that probably meant it had sealed...

Will bolt her up tonight.

If it makes you feel better I drew blood a couple of times BEFORE working out that I could achieve the correct torsion using a set of grips end on.
I am not describing this very well. I will take a pic tonight.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Sep 30, 14 8:41 am

Some are easier to assemble than others, the trick is to get the hose into the coller at the right depth so that you can assemble it without pushing the hose out of the coller as you do so, and ensuring you have no ragged edges of braid to gall up the threads. I've never managed to get a clean cut with a saw. If it's all assembled ok it will be leak free.