Will´s 1968 Dodge Charger

GTXJim · Post by **GTXJim** » Sat Oct 04, 14 8:29 pm

Would you need to put a piece of metal opposite the cut out, to balance it out, might get a wobble on at 7,000rpm???

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sat Oct 04, 14 8:37 pm

That's a really good point

Most modern car that do run these dont have a counter weight

Also there used on wheel speed sensors a lot also with out a counter weight

Most blower engine don't use a harmonic balancer the big belt acts a harmonic dampener.

I am running both a harmonic and belts

Will it make a massive difference doubt it

GTXJim · Post by **GTXJim** » Sat Oct 04, 14 10:02 pm

Just a thought, I'm sure it will be fine.

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Sat Oct 04, 14 10:28 pm

autofetish wrote:That's a really good point

Most modern car that do run these dont have a counter weight

Also there used on wheel speed sensors a lot also with out a counter weight

Most blower engine don't use a harmonic balancer the big belt acts a harmonic dampener.

I am running both a harmonic and belts

Will it make a massive difference doubt it

No, it wont make a difference on balance.

Is the sensor a hall effect sensor, Hall effect tend to be more reliable & don't give of reduced voltage/signal. Also, use a good sensor or more specifically don't use MSD sensors

Ask me how I know, took months to find out my crank sensor was only giving a reduced voltage/signal, causing starting problems.

FYI - A lot of those that do use Harmonic balancers, tend to be double key wayed on the crank & balancer.

Good stuff by the way

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sun Oct 05, 14 8:02 am

Yes it's good quaility yes it's hall affect and yes I have double keyways :

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Sun Oct 05, 14 9:33 am

autofetish wrote:Yes it's good quaility yes it's hall affect and yes I have double keyways :

Excellente Signor

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sun Oct 05, 14 10:45 pm

thanks for input gents need all the help i can

Stupid design or really clever

while bleeding my brakes the proposition valve clicked into safety mode and blocked off my rear brakes.

in the manual it says bin it

So i took its apart only to have a war with the rear cap

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finally got it out and replaced it with a brake union i welded up

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Yes i should replace the whole thing with a T piece but all my stainless lines i made are designed for this.

I was thinking about removing everything inside forever but then i would have a dual ? single ? dual system would this work ..........na....or

so i cleaned everything up and centered the piston assembly and pumped gently

only to find my adjustable bias valve further down the line is leaking

to be continued

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autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Fri Oct 10, 14 7:51 pm

Next I installed 2 Bosch coil packs these will be controlled by the ecu

Not very pretty but functional

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steveo · Post by **steveo** » Sat Oct 11, 14 9:18 pm

clever stuff Will , nice work

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sat Oct 11, 14 9:27 pm

The brain the ECU

There are hundreds on the market I went with an Omex 710

To install I took the dash out again ........ More Bananarama! wires !

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Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Oct 11, 14 9:55 pm

Every time I check out your thread I wonder what lunacy will greet me, this looks surprisingly normal.....

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Sat Oct 11, 14 10:00 pm

You trying to quit the fags Will ?
Fake cig in second coil pack pic. Then 2 pics with government warning in full view ???

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sun Oct 12, 14 7:51 pm

Got the trigger wheel machine out and bolted everything on.

This will now allow me to align everything else

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mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Sun Oct 12, 14 9:12 pm

Good work Will

How many degrees do you have the crank trigger advance, 90 Degrees ?
I know the ECU can pull it back, 55-60 degrees advance is normally sufficient.

Will you need to install a cam sensor for the coils ?

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sun Oct 12, 14 9:38 pm

The missing tooth is set 90* BTDC

The software can adjust the timing mark by 360* in 0.001 increments

I'm not using a cam trigger as going wasted spark. ( will Fire the correct cylinder and opersit cylinder at same time) as the ecu without a cam sensor does not know which cylinder is on its fire stroke

This style was used in most production cars up to 1998 and it's easy as don't need a cam pickup.

Cheap
But
Not as pretty as 8 individual coil packs