Darren's 74 Roadrunner

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Sun Feb 15, 15 6:24 pm

Ok guys, I thought I'd start a workshop thread to keep all your advise in one place.

I haven't done too much over the weekend as I haven't been feeling great.

I got the car home parked it up got it on stands to look at replacing the silencers. I'll have to cut the old ones off and fit new ones. Then I want to turn my attention to the play in steering, and try get the engine running sweetly.

Regarding engine could you guys give me the correct sequence of what I should look at. I was thinking of checking compression, distributor, timing then looking at the carburettor. Would I be going about this In the right order??

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Feb 15, 15 6:35 pm

I would not look too deeply into the engine if it is running OK - the harder you look the more you will find to spend hard earned cash on without significant benefit.

All the usual things, Timing is most important and modern fuels dictate you need to run more initial timing than factory manuals. Change oil, filter and spark plugs if they need it (go for NGK's). Ensure fuel supply is adequate and tune accordingly....then......enjoy!

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Sun Feb 15, 15 6:57 pm

I don't think it's running 100%. Just want check it over and make sure everything is set up right.

I don't plan on going mad.

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Sun Feb 15, 15 7:02 pm

Plugs were done recently. What's the best oil for the old girl it's a 383

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Sun Feb 15, 15 8:45 pm

Hi Darren. Looks like you've started the great oil debate again !!!!
Personally , the truck used Halfords classic. The Coronet gets Kendall.
5W 50 I think is correct ?
Helps to have a high zinc content.

Have a search on here for tuning , timing etc. loads of threads on it

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sun Feb 15, 15 10:06 pm

The previous owner mentioned a choke issue as I recall. Take a good look a the carb and ensure you have as much ignition advance as the car will. Handle without;
1 pulling the starter down
2 pinking under load.

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Sun Feb 15, 15 10:55 pm

What to you mean by pulling the starter down.. Sorry if that's a stupid question but I never heard the expression

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Sun Feb 15, 15 11:00 pm

Powermyster wrote:What to you mean by pulling the starter down.. Sorry if that's a stupid question but I never heard the expression

The only stupid questions are the ones you don't ask !

To much advance and the starter will give a big clunk and fail to turn or struggle to turn ( depending on how far you advance too much )

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sun Feb 15, 15 11:30 pm

If you advance the distributor too far in advance it will pul the starter down, sounds like you have a flat battrey. That's what it means.
Try this. Get the motor fully warmed up. Then whilst idling turn the distributor clockwise until the revs start to rise. Get to the max revs and the wind back a touch. Turn motor off. Wait two minutes and try to start.
If motor starts, great, test drive and see if she pinks.
If it pulls the starter down, back the dissy off a touch and try again.
Basic way of seeing If you have enough timing which these motors do like.

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Mon Feb 16, 15 2:20 pm

Thanks guys. I'm still no feeling the best. Once I get the exhaust fitted I'll drop her down and have a look at the steering (Milsen, I think I'll need to PM you on that) and the timing and carb.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Mon Feb 16, 15 6:49 pm

Hope you feel better soon matey.....there are dozens of good threads on timing etc.. well worth immersing yourself in them to get a feel for it.

Worth having access to a good dial in type timing light (luckily I can borrow a nice snap on one) and spend some time before you start checking that your TDC timing mark is accurate. I have experimented with lots of different ways just to learn a bit. I actually had the best results on my Polara by marking the dizzy with a little scratch as a baseline running default setting that you can return to, then going out with the timing light and a 1/2" spanner. I got car warm then advanced 2° at a time as I drove around until I found a nice spot where she pulls cleanly from a hill start with no pinking etc. As Miles said, make sure she starts after each change. If it all goes wrong, go back to the scratch mark you did earlier.

Its interesting stuff and there are lots of great pros on here who have forgotten a dozen times more info on this than I will ever know!!

Dont forget to check your total advance as well as initial (you will probably have to limit it depending on your new initial setting) and I would suggest spending a couple if quid on some additional earth leads. Spend an afternoon earthing your alternator (bracket to body), battery (minus terminal to block AND body) and your ECU and voltage regulator. They earth through their casings so I clean those points to bare metal and also add small additional earth leads from the mounting bolts to the body. You can do this to all your bulb holders as well.

Good luck and enjoy her

cheers Steve

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Wed Feb 18, 15 6:06 pm

Thanks Steve I'll try that once I get her back on the wheels. Still feeling not great but went out and got the old exhaust off today got some assembly paste and hope to put them back on later.

There is a small hole approx 1/4 inch diameter on top of each exhaust pipe near the rear. Should that be there or should I weld it up before they go back on?

Also the left exhaust pipe is slightly dented where it goes over the axle and there is an addition bend that the right pipe doesn't have under the car. Is this likely to cause me any issues. No photos yet.

Dave81 · Post by **Dave81** » Wed Feb 18, 15 9:01 pm

Powermyster wrote:Thanks Steve I'll try that once I get her back on the wheels. Still feeling not great but went out and got the old exhaust off today got some assembly paste and hope to put them back on later.

There is a small hole approx 1/4 inch diameter on top of each exhaust pipe near the rear. Should that be there or should I weld it up before they go back on?

Also the left exhaust pipe is slightly dented where it goes over the axle and there is an addition bend that the right pipe doesn't have under the car. Is this likely to cause me any issues. No photos yet.

Most dual exhaust are not symmetrical around the centreline of the car, so I wouldn't worry too much. As long as it's not vibrating on the underside or anything else it should be fine. I'd not worry about dents either. Should have no effect unless the pipe is pancaked.

Have no idea why there are any holes in the exhaust tubes. Should only happen due to years of use & rust. Some guys in the old days used to drill the back boxes to make it sound meatier. This is not really required on any Mopar. Flowmaster will make it sound proper...........I'd also add that holes in the exhaust tubing is usually an MOT fail if visible?

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Wed Feb 18, 15 9:11 pm

If the holes are near exhaust exit , could be old tail pipe trim screw holes ?
Weld them up if not needed.

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Wed Feb 18, 15 11:09 pm

I ended up having to extent the pipes slightly and do a little welding. The holes are definitely drilled. They were too far back to be off tailpipe trims. I left the holes there for now. The were actually under the pipe so I can weld them up another time if needs be.

Huge difference in the sound now, and got the tailpipes tucked back online with the rear of the car. Also think I fixed the loose mount that was causing the right exhaust to rattle.