1350 upgrade pinion, yokes , slip yoke

sublimemike · Post by **sublimemike** » Tue Jun 09, 15 8:37 pm

As the title says I'm changing the 906 style stuff for heavier duty gear UJ's etc. I've got to get the centre piece of the prop to weld the Yokes on. Had a trawl through the posts and before it goes in just need to check I've got everything to do it. The axle is a dana 60. , box 727 , So;

Impact gun
220lb torque wrench
prop with UJ's (balanced)
Slip yoke seal?
Pinion seal
U bolts.

Should I get a spare pinion nut? I believe the slip yoke should allow for 1/2 inch out of gearbox? The Strange one I got appears to be shorter than the existing one but is splined the full length.

It doesn't seem too daunting but I've not had my head in the back of Dana 60 and I believe they are not as straightforward as Suregrip etc.

Thanks for any help

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Jun 09, 15 9:23 pm

I know the Pinion is shimmed as opposed the 489 Crush washer on the 8 3/4 - SO, I would think it will not change the setting when you undo the nut.

I would probably seek professional advice from the likes of Hausers or Southern Axles................

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Tue Jun 09, 15 10:11 pm

The prop needs to be short enough to allow at least 3/4" movement into the box else you will have trouble fitting it. When you fit the prop you need to Bananarama! into the box so the rear UJ clears the diff yoke, then pull it back into the yoke and fit the U bolts. I don't think half inch is enough.

sublimemike · Post by **sublimemike** » Tue Jun 09, 15 10:23 pm

Thanks Mick. The existing prop has about 1 and 3/4 inch exposed - seems a bit excessive.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Jun 10, 15 6:40 am

Theres a correct method of measuring yoke engagement, it's in the DC chassis book. I'll have a look later on unless someone else has it to hand.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Wed Jun 10, 15 8:15 am

Blue wrote:Theres a correct method of measuring yoke engagement, it's in the DC chassis book. I'll have a look later on unless someone else has it to hand.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Jun 10, 15 5:43 pm

Ok here you go, hopefully you can read them, 4 speed, 727 and 904.

sublimemike · Post by **sublimemike** » Wed Jun 10, 15 7:50 pm

Thanks Jon.
So from centre of UJ to 727 auto the distance on the yoke should be 3 and 3/4 inch if I read right. As long as I don't have to mess around with shims and crush sleeves it sounds good.

I did look at chromoly stuff but it was twice the price, given the sleeve is probably the heaviest piece is it feasible to have that in chromoly and the rest steel or will that not weld?? Just an idea.

sublimemike · Post by **sublimemike** » Wed Jun 10, 15 7:58 pm

In which case my existing prop is fitted pretty much correct with 1and 3/4 inch exposed

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Thu Jun 11, 15 12:34 pm

You can weld chrome moly to mild steel easily enough. Unless you are goin' racin', chrome moly tube and yokes are overkill, you won't break stock 1350 stuff on the street.

sublimemike · Post by **sublimemike** » Thu Jun 11, 15 1:28 pm

Thanks again Jon. It will be seeing some track action, as ever it's trying to keep the weight off and at what price without stripping everything bare.