Torsion bars, strut bars etc

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Wed Jul 01, 15 12:05 pm

TW71 wrote:Try not to nick or damage the Torsion bars to prevent stress risers .

No worries, I have the torsion bar removal tool

Gareth · Post by **Gareth** » Wed Jul 01, 15 7:14 pm

You may not need to use your torsion bar removal tool. Once you have the LCA pivot nut removed use a pry bar between the LCA and the K-frame and it should all separate without too much fuss. If you don't have a workshop manual there are numerous guides online to help you. Try this one for starters.

http://www.crazysmopar.com/tech_frontend_walk.html

If you're using rubber LCA bushes fit the pivot pin into the bush before installing into the LCA otherwise you may ruin your new bushes. Also make sure that you have the car back on it's wheels and at ride height before final torquing up of any bushed components.

Good luck!

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Thu Jul 02, 15 2:25 am

Thanks Gareth, looks like I might have cocked up a little, I removed the rear nut from the strut rod first, according to that guide this is wrong, I should have removed the front nut first. Oh well, makes it more interesting

Thanks for sharing the guide

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Fri Jul 03, 15 3:35 am

As I thought after reading through the guide posted by Gareth, I should have removed the the nut on the front of the strut bar first, so I put the rear nut back on, only to find that it went on so far and then the strut rod just started turning in its housing / bushes

Tried everything I could think of, ended up having to carefully cut the nut of without damaging the threads on the strut rod ( see my wanted post ).
Apart from this, stripping one side all went fairly easily. Just got to put it back together now and do the other side

latil · Post by **latil** » Fri Jul 03, 15 7:57 am

Just jacking under bottom arm should have been enough to pinch the bar to re tighten the rear nut.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Fri Jul 03, 15 9:03 am

What Latil said

I find that when working with suspension components the jack is your friend. Subtle adjustments can be made.
As previously pointed out, tighten all parts up when the car is on its wheels under normal weight.
I was luckier than you; o the 73+ B bodies the strut rod is simply bolted on to the to of the LCA making removal a simple job.

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Fri Jul 03, 15 10:10 am

latil wrote:Just jacking under bottom arm should have been enough to pinch the bar to re tighten the rear nut.

Yeah, tried that, still wouldn't hold it in place. At least I only destroyed a nut rather than the strut rod though. Lesson learnt, I've already loosened everything off on the other side in preparation to make sure I do it right on that side

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Fri Jul 03, 15 10:30 am

MilesnMiles wrote: As previously pointed out, tighten all parts up when the car is on its wheels under normal weight.

Thanks Miles, am I ok to fully tighten the bottom ball joints, steering linkages and pitman arm with it in the air. Just leaving the torsion bars, LCA's and strut rods to fully tighten when it's on its wheels?

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Fri Jul 03, 15 11:11 am

Not quite, have the car on the jack to adjust the torsion bars or it'll have the front apron on the garage floor!
When I undo my torsion bar nuts I count the number of turns so I can get the car back roughly where it was for the ride height for when I drop it off the jack.
I then drop the car to tighten anti roll bar and control rod bushings.
Pitman arm/ball joint done on the jack.

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Fri Jul 03, 15 11:55 am

Thanks Miles, very helpful.

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Sat Jul 11, 15 12:05 pm

Quick question,
The front end is now all stripped and ready to go back together. When I bought the new bushes for the LCA's, I also got a pair of new pivot pins, these came with the bushes and new outer sleeves to fit in the LCA's.
Question is, do I use the original outer sleeves that have no damage or, do I use the new ones as supplied?
Taking the old ones out isn't a problem, just not 100% certain of whether to use the new ones or not, I'm certain that I know the answer and I'm probably being a pussy about it, but thought id ask just to make sure

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Sun Jul 12, 15 12:53 am

Decided to take the old ones out, if you're going to do it, do it right!

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Sun Jul 12, 15 7:29 am

thats what i always end up doing. "While its out..." Might as well. I take the view i dont want to take it off again !

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Sun Jul 12, 15 11:18 pm

morgan wrote: thats what i always end up doing. "While its out..." Might as well. I take the view i dont want to take it off again !

Exactly, always a good idea to just get it done.

I bought the same pivot shafts and bushes from hotchkis as you did, now my sway bar mountings don't line up, looks like I'll have to trim 6mm off mine as well, has yours been ok since you did it?

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Tue Jul 14, 15 11:58 am

Yep. Almost glad you found the same thing - Seems odd. But yes, mine are A-OK.

Problem (and solution!) can be seen here. Supplied poly is too long for the spindle. Mushroom bit needs trimming.