6-Pack Woes

[Bilko]

Last Sunday I decided to cure a small fuel leak by replacing the steel fuel lines to my 6 pack. While I was in there I decided to do a mini rebuild of the 3 carbs. I replaced the 3 base gaskets, float bowl gaskets, idle needle gaskets, power valve in the center carb, and the metering plates on the outboard carbs.
All parts used were genuine Holley and I didn't mess with anything else.

It now is a pig to start and refuses to idle, and is using fuel like you wouldn't believe! I've spent today checking over everything I did to make sure a gasket wasn't round the wrong way or a passage blocked but found nothing. I've now put the old power valve back in case the new one was faulty but it made no difference. I had it running on-and-off for an hour to make adjustments and it got through 7 gallons of petrol!!

Black smelly smoke is puffing out of both exhausts and the back of the car is covered in black soot. I am now at my wits end and out of ideas. It's obviously getting too much fuel but I can't work out why?

Anyone on here know a 'carb guy' that would work in Maldon, Essex?

[Pete]

Have you checked / set the float levels, they often take a while to settle down.

I assume you did not touch the outboard carb mixture screws?

If you look down the venturi's of each carb can you see flooding?

Slow and steady does it.

[Bilko]

Float levels are as per the Holley instructions as far as my limited skills can tell.

Looking down the throat of the front carb the manifold was flooded with fuel but how do I tell which carb it's coming from?

I agree about the slow and steady does it, but it feels as though any adjustment I make is making no difference at all? Idle screws turned almost fully seated or practically falling out doesn't change the quality of the idle.

[Bilko]

I assume you did not touch the outboard carb mixture screws?

No, I left them well alone as I figured they don't come into play when getting the car to idle. Is this correct?

[Pete]

That is exactly when they work.

You should be able to see which carb is flooding.

A good check is to connect a timing light to the king lead and shine it down the venturi - it acts like a strobe and highlights leaks / over-fueling.

[Bilko]

That is exactly when they work.

Sorry Pete I can't get my head round this, everything I've read about 6-packs suggests getting the center carb running right first before even looking at the outboard ones. I thought the car started, idled and ran on the middle carb and the outboards only kick in when you floor it? No wonder I'm struggling.

This thread on another site showed the guy removing the outboards and blanking them off while setting up the center.

[Dutchrunner]

Was the new power valve of the same rating as old?

[Pete]

A genuine 6 pack idles on the outboards as well as the centre carb to ensure the fuel does not go stale with lack of use.

Jenson SP's do not work this way.

[Bilko]

Was the new power valve of the same rating as old?

I couldn't find a rating on the old one, just a bunch of numbers.

The new Holley one was rated at 6.5 and was a slightly different shape/design, which is why I took it out in case it was causing problems.

[Scooby]

Speak with Anton on here I had carb probs( a new 750DP) which I thought was bulletproof proof but had internal secondary issues. Anton sorted it. Give him a bell.
Rich

[Adrian Worman]

Dave Robson is yer man

Move near the Toon & you'll be set for life

[Bilko]

Dave Robson is yer man

Move near the Toon & you'll be set for life

Someone get a message to him, I'll pay all travel expenses!

[ANTON]

Clean and gap the plugs and then start he car and look down each carb throat see if you can see any fuel. If you see fuel then that is the carb that is causing the problem. Strip the carb and blow and clean all passages and then reassemble. Spray a bit a carb cleaner around base of carbs when running to see if you have any vacuum leaks. Set the idle screw out 1 1/2 turn to start and then using a vacumm gauge get the best possible idle. I assume you haven't adjusted the timing. Float level is adjusted while the car is running using a 5/8 spanner and screwdriver. Remove sight plug and raise or lower the needle till fuel is level with the bottom of the sight plug. Check your needle seat for dirt while the carb is apart as they will leak if there is dirt in them.

If you get the car down to me Ill try and sort it before the classic car show.

[Bilko]

When I first put the carbs back I never thought to check the float levels as it was running spot on before so figured they were about right.

I've now pulled the rear carb off again to go over it and found the float to be set almost at the bottom of the bowl? The valve shuts off with almost no upward movement of the float. I also checked the idle screws after Pete telling me they do contribute to the idle and found the right hand one was 3/4 turn out from bottom, and the left one was actually fully seated?

I'm replacing the rear carb idle screws with some trick items that allow you to adjust them with the carb fitted, should I put them back as I found them or should I set them out equally?

[Pete]

The mixture screws on the outboards are extremely sensitive and should only be out about 1/16th turn from bottomed out and thereby turn about 1/16th at a time until you get it running smoothly. I also cover with silicon after adjusting to prevent leaks.

For the record, I had the carbs off the Bee about 10 or 11 times before I settled for the level of tune, I could get them better but lost the will to live.

However, it starts on the button hot or cold and goes like a stabbed rat and does not make your eyes water endlessly...