James Demon not James Dean

[Demon James]

Mixing threads a bit so I'm just bringing this back to my main car one

Having now damaged a bottom compression ring on piston #7 I have decided to refresh the lot. The reason I didn't before was just down to bores looking good and all existing ring gaps being around the 0.023-0.026" range.

I have just noticed on the earlier picture of my pistons lined up the #7 happens to be the first in shot. It looks like the 2nd compression ring is damaged or a burr sticking out? I Certainly didn't notice this on removal and there isn't even the slightest mark in the bore

I also went home and dug out last years compression test results and #7 is around 20-30 psi down on all the others which I had forgotten about. On the bright side I guess it's a good thing this ring failed now and not after putting it all back together

I have also drawn up where I understand the ring gaps should go (this is how I set them last time) but there seems to be different advice floating about on this. Does my drawing make sense and how important is it to get the correct locations?

[Dave999]

you will be fine with that.

mind I had fun with rings

More important to get them in right way up.

if the instructions make no sense or contradict everyone else's advice....ASK

do you need to hone the bores?
do you still have a cross hatch pattern?

if you need to borrow a flex hone? I have one for 3.8-4.?? diameter holes.

its like a brush dipped in cement made from wet and dry paper abrasive coating

oil it
oil bore
spin it mighty fast in drill
waaazz it up and down as fast as you can

clean block, and your face and the wall because grey oily gunge goes everywhere

do ring gaps.

i.e that crank and all of the bearings will need to come out first.

your ring gaps seem quite big? take advice from others with big pistons

mine are small



Dave

[Demon James]

Sounds delightful

I think I should get my own honing tool as I have been inundated with offers from people willing to lend me one, it would appear I'm the only person on the planet without one

In fact, I don't think my Mums got one but she is now considering getting one just so she can lend it to me

Thanks Dave and to everyone else who has kindly offered

I have managed to borrow one right on my doorstep, so it looks like I got me a hone down goin' on

New rings coming next week so I'll get the block ready now so I can crack on as soon as they arrive

[Demon James]

Bores honed and new rings in this morning, no more work until tomorrow as I have a 70th birthday this afternoon (not mine ) But hopefully back together enough tomorrow to maybe put the motor back in

Any tips on 340 small block head refitting, I have new gaskets and it's all very clean

[Pete]

Looking good, if all is well and checks out then just torque the heads down in sequence and do it progressively (not straight to the max torque figure in one go).

[Demon James]

Cheers Pete, I've noted the sequence ready for tomorrow and does 30-50-70-90 sound ok for foot pounds? I've seen numbers for these range from 85 to 95 ft/lb max.

I de-burred the oil drain back holes in the heads when they where apart too. Seemed only right seeing as someone had done the block in the past but not the heads. Paranoid about grinding dust and dwarf so a lot of time was spent cleaning and cleaning again before rebuilding the heads

[Demon James]

"dwarf"??

Yeah, paranoid of dwarves

[MilesnMiles]

James, probably a bit late in the day, but did you install newer, higher pressure valve springs?
I only ask in case you do decide to go up in cam size at some point. Just whilst the heads are out...

Flexplate posted yesterday!

[Demon James]

Cheers Miles


No future plans now to get any more out of this motor, just a good clean, new bearings and timing gears/chain, light honing and new rings.

That'll do me for this car

[Demon James]

While I think of it, my existing torque converter has two weights welded to it and we know my motor is externally balanced, OK?

Now, with the BM flex plate having a cut out for balance, does this mean my converter won't be any good with the new flex plate?

I only ask as my MOT comes up shortly and my new converter is now not being shipped until March 11th. Ideally I need to get the Demon on the road, at least moving under its own steam as it were. Just a question to see if I could run my old converter as a temporary measure?

[Demon James]

My band of eager engineers reciting the valve train

[Pete]

In tne market for a nice 750 Vac Sec now??

[ScottyDave]

looks good it'll soon be back in

[Demon James]

In tne market for a nice 750 Vac Sec now??

Sat the 650 Holley dp on the top today to check dimensions and make sure everything is free to move. But I need to make up a fuel rail/pipe for it as it doesn't have anything in the two inlets, this is where I need help and research because this s all new to me Pipe sizes thread sizes various connections and I'm still running a mechanical pump with no intention of going electric anytime soon


Yes ScottyDave, fingers crossed soon back in (but maybe with the eddy carb that was on it before for now )

[John]

In tne market for a nice 750 Vac Sec now??

Sat the 650 Holley dp on the top today to check dimensions and make sure everything is free to move. But I need to make up a fuel rail/pipe for it as it doesn't have anything in the two inlets, this is where I need help and research because this s all new to me Pipe sizes thread sizes various connections and I'm still running a mechanical pump with no intention of going electric anytime soon


Yes ScottyDave, fingers crossed soon back in (but maybe with the eddy carb that was on it before for now )

Click on fuel systems on the real steel link James http://www.realsteel.co.uk/ and you will see exactly what you need

I would go with dash 6 sizes of fittings for fitting to your fuel lines